Trevor...
Is it that foil interference sleeve you're trying to change?
The thing that holds the steel pivot pin in place at the clutch
release arm? Sadly, I see no way to do it without pulling the tranny.
> Ideas? I thought about just using a fatter
>pin, anyone try that before?
>
> Any ideas on snugging this up without
>pulling the engine and tranny?
Hmmm...not sure what would work. The original design calls for two
bronze bushings pressed into counterbored holes in the iron
bellhousing, top and bottom. The steel pivot pin is intended to
rotate in those bushings and *not* in the aluminum release arm.
Ideally the foil interference sleeve serves to do this and of course,
prevents the pin from dropping out onto the road. :-(
If you try an oversize pin or bolt you may create a condition where
the pivot is now steel to aluminum versus steel to bronze. This might
accelerate wear and create more lost motion. You'll hafta' look and
see if the bolt/pin seems to be stationary or moving while you work
the clutch. I suppose I would try to lubricate the oversize bolt/pin
if I found this condition and had to go this route.
If the clutch and tranny were working fine otherwise, I would
personally try *anything* before pulling them to fix this problem. :-)
A shoulder bolt might work well...can't fall out anyway.
On the day you finally need to pull the tranny any competent machine
shop will be able to bore and rebush the release arm back to original
specs cheaply. On my car I replaced the bronze bushings, pin and
interference sleeve...on the bench of course. I then sealed the top
and bottom holes in the bellhousing with silicon caulk, taking care
not to glue the pin to the bushings. :-) I'm thinking that water got
in there and started all the trouble. We'll see how well this holds
up.
Cheers!
Tom O'Malley
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