Hi List,
Thanks for all the ideas and sugestions. One thing I hadn't tried that a
couple people mentioned was to open the gas filler cap when in this
condition. Never tried that. I hope never to be in the situation again to
do it. (The line from the f. pump to the carb goes up and over the engine
and over to the carb).
I think I will get the fuel pump (also to prepare for that rotary someday)
and also install a heat shield, made out of something...a cookie sheet
possibly.
? Would it need any insulation on it?
Can anyone recommend a good, inexpensive fuel pump and regulator for our
cars?
I have this from over a year ago:
The fuel filter is a FRAM G12. I like clear because you can see the
fuel move. Good for trouble shooting.
Where the Fuel line goes to the engine, I have another filter. Clear
Glass. Its a purolator, don't know the part #. But it is designed to take a
pressure.
The Fuel Pump is a Carter P61145s. Got that number off the pump
itself. The other number was 99m12a , I think that is a date stamp.
The regulater is a Purolator Pro Fuel. Don't know the number, but it
is adjustable from 1/2 PSI to 5 PSI.
Between the fuel pump is a 90 brass elbow and a brass pipe nipple. Think
they are 1/4' threads.
Any other suggestions for part numbers?
Thanks,
John
"Nick Moseley" <nmoseley@direct.ca> on 04/30/2001 09:32:12 PM
To: <Jjcousins@ra.rockwell.com>
cc:
Subject: Re: Chronic Vapor Lock: Longish
John, I've had similar symptoms on two cars, a 76 without cat, and a 78
with.
Some thoughts:
-will the car start if you release the gas tank cap? ie. is air able to
come
in and replace the volume of fuel consumed.
-does the pump to the carb run uphill so air would go to the carb rather
than pooling at some point in the line between the pump and the carb?
-consider a heat shield that goes between the headers and the carb. Some
cars came with them stock.
I played with the above things, but in both cars what solved the problem
was
a new fuel pump. In both cases, the vapour lock seemed to be a symptom of a
fuel pump on the way out.
Hope this helps, and good luck.
Nick Moseley
Delta B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jjcousins@ra.rockwell.com>
To: <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 11:07 AM
Subject: Chronic Vapor Lock: Longish
>
> Hello List,
>
> My car suffers from chronic vapor lock. I've been (mostly) successfully
> dealing with it for the last 3 years. Here's the deal:
>
> When I travel on the highway and then get off, maybe drive for 10 more
> minutes of back roads and then shut off the car. I will be able to start
> her after sitting for 5-15 minutes, but sure as S#@% 2 minutes after
> running, it will sputter and die. No fuel. After that, NO amount of
> cranking (which I don't like to do) will start her. After sitting
another
> 45-60 minutes (engine cools), starts up and away I go. This happened to
me
> a couple times a few years ago. Since then, I have dealt with it by:
>
> *After highway, shut off and forget about it (like at work) for hours
> *Drive back roads after highway driving (<50 mpg or start/stop) for about
> 30 minutes to get out of "eminent vapor lock mode."
>
> I've also had the problem when it is REALLY HOT out like 90 degrees and
> travelling on highway, it actually got sputtering and I limped to a
parking
> lot and I had to wait the 45 minutes to go. FWIW, the car runs very
cool -
> on this day (90+ degs) it was 1/2 mark past 1/2. Usually runs 1/2 mark
> under 1/2. (Yes, I've had it go to nearly full hot before, so the guage
> works : - ) ).
>
> So, here's my car: 150 CD, Headers, after headers, a straight pipe out
to
> a muffler (no cat). The PO had this problem ("If it's really hot out, it
> dies") and he had crappy custom exhaust out to a cat UNDER the car out to
a
> stock muffler.
>
> Here's more info (maybe or not relevant), if the car sits for a week or
so,
> it seems the fuel in the line (to the carb) evaporates (or gets sucked
back
> into the tank) so I have to crank for a few seconds (a couple of 4 second
> sessions) to start her. If the car sits for only a day, hardly any
> cranking. And linearly between there.
>
> I plan to switch to an electric fuel pump BACK AT THE TANK in order to
PUSH
> the gas into the carb (increases pressure) rather than suck it, (which
> would lower the pressure = boil). Will this solve/alleviate somewhat my
> problem?
>
> Help?
>
> Thanks,
> John Cousins
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