I'm pretty sure they are stock in length. But they are Ted Schumacher's V168
pushrods.
Joe
Carter Shore wrote:
>
> Are you using stock pushrods?
>
> Since the rocker pedestal bolts directly to the head,
> milling the head or block does not directly affect the
> geometry of the rocker arm tips with respect to the
> valve stem tips (ie, their relative positions are
> unchanged). But it does alter the relative positions
> of the adjustable ends of the rocker arms and the
> lifters, ie the distance is reduced by the amount
> removed. Since the length of stock pushrods is fixed,
> this can be a concern.
>
> Now .030 is probably not enough to make a difference,
> the ball end adjustment screws on the rocker arm tips
> can compensate for that samll amount.
>
> But if you remove a lot, .100 or more, you should at
> least check that there is enough adjustment, and also
> that the parts do not bind at full lift.
>
> The alloy pushrods allowed easy shortening, just pop
> off one of the steel tips, remove the needed amount,
> then tap the tip back in.
>
> Not sure if anyone is selling those now, but I've seen
> steel tube pushrods.
>
> The comp manual mentioned putting spacers under the
> rocker pedestal, to change the rocker/stem geometry
> for high lift cams. Though I've done this on my
> motors, I'm not sure how important it was, as we still
> had lots of wear of the rocker tips and valve stems.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Carter Shore
>
> --- Craig Smith <CraigS@iewc.com> wrote:
> >
> > I got a question along this...
> >
> > I had the head on my 71 shaved .030, I got to
> > thinking about the rocker
> > angle to the push rods.
> > I lowered the deck of the head but I didn't do
> > anything to the rods, do I
> > need to shim the rocker pedestals up to make up the
> > diff ?
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