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RE: cylinder head

To: "'Joe Curry'" <spitlist@gte.net>, "John Weber" <weberjm@teleport.com>
Subject: RE: cylinder head
From: "Graziano, Michael" <michael.graziano@csfb.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 09:17:09 -0400
Just a note on the ARP studs.  I bought them when I recently did my engine
rebuild, but didn't use them.  THey are 3/8" too short.  There are about 4
people on the Spridget list who have encountered this as well.  Dave at APT
has a fix that included lock tite,  but I decided to use new standard studs
instead.  He's confident his lock-tite method would be fine.  I assume he's
done it in the past and not had problems.  BUT,  I'm returning the ARP studs
tomorrow i.e. they go in the mail tomorrow.  If anyone wants them,  email me
today and I'd be happy to sell them to you for my cost of $60 plus shipping
to you.  The ARP part number of the kit is 206-4203 and includes
instructions, nuts, washers, studs, and assembly lube.

No financial interest as the store already agreed to take them back.  But I
thought I'd offer my input.

Has anyone else encountered this problem?

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Curry [mailto:spitlist@gte.net]
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 1:56 AM
To: John Weber
Cc: Spitfire (E-mail)
Subject: Re: cylinder head



Yes, I recommend torqueing the head before starting it up and immediately
after the engine warms up (before it cools off).  You will be
surprised how loose the nuts get when it warms up.

I don't know about going with a higher torque specification.  I would not
recommend it if you are using the old head studs.  However,
ARP head studs are supposed to be torqued to 50 pounds.  So, I guess it
depends on the particulars of what you are using.  One note,
Kas Kastner's competition manual recommended using thicker nuts on the head
studs and then torque it to 60 pounds.  Of course, it is on
competition prepared engines that will rev upwards of 7000 rpm.

Regards,
Joe 

John Weber wrote:
> 
> Joe, et al:
> 
> Yesterday, when I dropped my head off for rebuild, the mechanic reminded
me
> to torque the head immediately after the engine warms up...and to do it
> again at about 500 miles.  This agrees with this list, plus agreeing with
> the Haynes book in the engine rebuild section.
> 
> They also said to torque it to 50 vice 46.  Any thoughts on this?  I was
> under the impression that too much torque was not good.
> 
> And on another note, I remember a thread where the little pieces of wood
for
> the front? plate were needed.  BPNW includes them in their engine gasket
> kit.  NFI on my end.  Just noted that they were in the kit when I unboxed
it
> the other day.
> 
> John
> '75 Spit

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