Might it run too lean if the fuel pump was working but not adequately? Or
would it not run at all if that was the case?
Mike
Renton, WA
------Original Message------
From: "alemen@pop.ftconnect.com" <alemen@pop.ftconnect.com>
To: "spitfires@autox.team.net" <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Sent: September 6, 2000 4:27:23 PM GMT
Subject: Re: Fuel. Check. Fire. Fire. Hello, Fire?
I had a similar problem.
1. Mixture and setting seemed fine but was needed tweaking/checking
emissions for DEQ.
2. First garage I ended up taking it to could not get it done. Then replaced
rotor and cap (was already new plugs and leads). Ran better.
3. They had no clue as to getting the emissions down. I ended up reseting
timing and vacuum routing after I had it there as it was running worse than
when I took it in!
4. Took it to an old ex BL mechanic and he almost instantly said it was
misfiring as it was running too lean. The first place had leaned it out to
much trying to get emissions down. He set it all by ear no fancy instuments
and got it through DEQ and it runs really smooth now.
Could be similar with running too lean.
Alan
Original Message:
-----------------
From: Flinthoof Ponypal Flinters@picarefy.com
Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2000 08:11:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Fuel. Check. Fire. Fire. Hello, Fire?
At 07:37 AM 9/6/2000 -0500, Richard B Gosling wrote:
>
>Stupid question - you've tried replacing the plug wires - have you tried
> replacing the spark plugs themselves? If no current passes along the HT
lead,
> the timing light won't light, even if the HT lead is live (I think).
Although
> if it was dud plugs, then you shouldn't get a spark between the HT lead
and
> the cap when you hold them close (which you have tried if I read your
message
> right).
>
Replaced plugs. I also have extras that I can plug into a lead to check
the intensity of a spark at the end of the plug wire itself.
>If you simply had the leads connected wrongly, the timing light would still
> function, since the plugs would still spark, just at a rather useless
moment.
> Cylinder no.1 is the one at the front (nearest the radiator) - the only
> confusion I've ever come across on labelling convention is on V engines
(some
> do one bank, then the other, some count from front to rear back and forth
> between the banks - working for an engine design consultancy we get all
sorts
> of customers!). All 4-cyl engines I've ever seen fire 1-3-4-2.
>
Double checked and confirmed it's hooked up correctly. Even took a
picture:
http://jarmac.picarefy.com/spitfire/projects.html
>My knee-jerk reaction in this sort of situation is to go down to Halfords
(UK
> equivalent of Pep Boys, I would guess), and spend 20 quid (30 bucks) on
brand
> new plugs, HT leads, rotor, cap, and maybe even points and condenser.
Then
> you KNOW, for sure, that everything is good. It just removes some of the
> uncertaincy from the process - it will either cure it, or rule out all
those
> possibilities, either way worth the money, and all those parts should be
> replaced on a regular basis anyway.
Money's tight right now, but I know how tempting it is to do exactly that.
So I used used parts from my stock pile of components, but test each one
before installation. Some items like cap and rotor had less than 10
minutes running time on them on a previous engine so they are doing well.
My next step is to confirm the timing is set correctly- it's always
possible something got bumped and it's now off on the distributor.
-Vegaman Dan
-68 Spitui!
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