Ok my guess.
Check the button in the center of the cap, I had a new cap that the center
carbon thingy broke.
Then check the gap on the rotor button metal piece. I don't remember the
exact gap maybe .95 or .095.
-----Original Message-----
From: Flinthoof Ponypal [mailto:Flinters@picarefy.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 10:11 AM
To: spitfires
Subject: Re: Fuel. Check. Fire. Fire. Hello, Fire?
At 07:37 AM 9/6/2000 -0500, Richard B Gosling wrote:
>
>Stupid question - you've tried replacing the plug wires - have you tried
> replacing the spark plugs themselves? If no current passes along the HT
lead,
> the timing light won't light, even if the HT lead is live (I think).
Although
> if it was dud plugs, then you shouldn't get a spark between the HT lead
and
> the cap when you hold them close (which you have tried if I read your
message
> right).
>
Replaced plugs. I also have extras that I can plug into a lead to check
the intensity of a spark at the end of the plug wire itself.
>If you simply had the leads connected wrongly, the timing light would still
> function, since the plugs would still spark, just at a rather useless
moment.
> Cylinder no.1 is the one at the front (nearest the radiator) - the only
> confusion I've ever come across on labelling convention is on V engines
(some
> do one bank, then the other, some count from front to rear back and forth
> between the banks - working for an engine design consultancy we get all
sorts
> of customers!). All 4-cyl engines I've ever seen fire 1-3-4-2.
>
Double checked and confirmed it's hooked up correctly. Even took a
picture:
http://jarmac.picarefy.com/spitfire/projects.html
>My knee-jerk reaction in this sort of situation is to go down to Halfords
(UK
> equivalent of Pep Boys, I would guess), and spend 20 quid (30 bucks) on
brand
> new plugs, HT leads, rotor, cap, and maybe even points and condenser.
Then
> you KNOW, for sure, that everything is good. It just removes some of the
> uncertaincy from the process - it will either cure it, or rule out all
those
> possibilities, either way worth the money, and all those parts should be
> replaced on a regular basis anyway.
Money's tight right now, but I know how tempting it is to do exactly
that.
So I used used parts from my stock pile of components, but test each one
before installation. Some items like cap and rotor had less than 10
minutes running time on them on a previous engine so they are doing well.
My next step is to confirm the timing is set correctly- it's always
possible something got bumped and it's now off on the distributor.
-Vegaman Dan
-68 Spitui!
________________________________________________________________________
| | Equinart Studios * Furry Artist * Model Railroader |
| Flinthoof |--------------------------------------------------------|
| *U* | MINTMINTMINTMINTMINTMINTMINTMINTMINTMINTMINTMINT!! |
| Y2K! |--------------------------------------------------------|
| | ConiFur NorthWest 2000 - Furries in Seattle! |
| |--------------------------------------------------------|
| CONIFUR NW | Flinters@picarefy.com * http://jarmac.picarefy.com |
|_____________|________________________________________________________|
|