The coarsest sandpaper for color sanding is 1000 grit, then you finish with 1500
grit (both wet). You might still be able to "finish" yours with those finer
papers. If you've waxed it, be sure to get that off with PrepSol (or similar)
before you sand.
Mike
Renton, WA
Craig Smith wrote:
> Rob,
>
> The clear coat thing is nice, looks good, shines nice, but one major thing
> is it's DAMN expensive !
>
> I looked at it myself but decided on a Urethane. It went on real nice, the
> flow was good and I didn't have any runs.
>
> Most people told me to cut and buff it after I painted it, I went over the
> bonnet with 600 grit wet paper and I wish I hadn't. It put swirls in it and
> dulled the finish a bit. No one else notices this but I do !
> I spent two years on mine just like you did and the paint was a BIG
> decision.
>
> I chose a Torch Red which is a GM color for 98 Vettes. I think the code was
> 72 at a Dupont dealer. The cost for one gallon and an extra quart plus the
> activator was around $250.00.
>
> It smelled like hell but I am real satisfied with the outcome.
>
> Good luck with your choice, I anguished over mine for 4 months before I made
> the final choice.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rtgetzinger@scif.com [mailto:rtgetzinger@scif.com]
> Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2000 4:39 PM
> To: Spitfires@autox.team.net
> Subject: Paint originality
>
> After almost a year of bodywork, primer and sand over and over, my '74 spit
> is just about ready for paint. I have chosen Carmine Red as my original
> color. The original French Blue just doesn't suit me. My question is, if I
> have a clear coat put on over the color coat will it change the look of the
> car enough that it will not look original?
> My car is neither a show car or a daily driver. It is a two year project
> that
> I work on, lots.
> Rob
> Redding, CA
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