Well, you guys were right. The Cobalt bit didn't even make a dent! But my
die grinder sure did! Sparks were flying as I ground down the welded-on nut
into oblivion and with it, that darned broken tap. For now, I just have a
large fender washer doing the honors with a nut and locknut. It'll do until
I can teach myself how to weld -- or not.
Thanks to all who offered suggestions.
Got a new problem though... A couple actually. I'll save it for another
thread.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: Graham Stretch <technical@iwnet.screaming.net>
To: Jeff McNeal <jmcneal@ohms.com>
Cc: List Spitfires <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2000 12:29 PM
Subject: Re: screwed...
> Hi Jeff
> I doubt that the Cobalt drill will touch it either, for the jig try a
piece
> of flat steel stock with a hole the right size drilled in it, try the back
> door of a local machine shop with enough Dollars for a drink! They will
> probably have some scrap around big enough for your needs (1"x1"x6" should
> do) cramp this to the floor and drill down the hole. Alternatively I think
> these cars use a nut welded to the floor from underneath why not just
remove
> it and weld a new one in place.
>
> Graham.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jeff McNeal <jmcneal@ohms.com>
> To: Spitfire List <spitfires@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, March 06, 2000 4:50 AM
> Subject: screwed...
>
>
> >
> > Pardon the abrasive header of this message, but it seems like the most
> > concise way to describe my situation. When replacing my seat rails
> > yesterday, I noticed that the PO had drilled an alternate hole in the
seat
> > track because he busted one of the 1/4" mounting bolts in the original
> hole.
> > Up for the challenge, I sawed off the nub sticking up so I would have a
> > nice, flat surface to drill through, which I did with a 7/32" bit,
> drilling
> > through the old bolt. So far, so good.
> >
> > Next, I borrowed a buddies tap and die set and proceeded to tap a new
1/4"
> x
> > 28 thread. Then, SNAP! The tap busted off inside the hole, with no way
> to
> > get it out. I killed two perfectly good drill bits trying. Someone
> > suggested a cobalt drill bit to slice through the hardened steel of the
> tap.
> > Now, the thing is a real mess and I'm trying to figure out the best way
to
> > drill back through and retry with a new tap.
> >
> > I wish there were some kind of jig I could create that gave me the
> stability
> > and precision of a drill press. Right now, there's no way I can get the
> bit
> > started straight on because of the way the tap broke off. My plan at
the
> > moment is to attack the problem from the bottom side this time, using a
> die
> > grinder to flatten off the bottom, before drilling up and through.
Before
> I
> > attempt this, is the broken tap going to be too much for my grinding
> wheel?
> > IS there a simple, clever way to rig up a portable drill press so I can
> > drill straight down without worring about drilling crooked? Or should I
> > just say "screw it" and use the alternate hole that the PO drilled, even
> > though it interferes with the travel of the sliders?
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Jeff in San Diego
> > 67 RHD Spitfire Mk3 aka Mrs. Jones
> > www.ohms.com/spitfire/spitfire.shtml
> >
> >
>
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