Scott,
I've successfully rebuilt this switch assembly and have a diagram here:
http://www.enteract.com/~vmichael/switchassy.html that may be of some help.
I was fortunate to have a replacement for the piece that had broken.
In diagram, you can somewhat make out a white plastic piece just behind post
'B'.
There was also a contact that was not working properly. I had to really get into
the workings of this switch to find out what was wrong. If you're not prepared
to do the same - get a new one.
Victoria British has them for $86.95 (part #0-941)
You should be able to get a better price through Doug's Parts
(http://www.triumphparts.com)
Good luck Scott,
Vic
Growe58@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 7/16/1999 0:25:46 AM EST, HD883HUGGR@aol.com writes:
>
> << Hi Spitphiles.
> Got a chance to drive Hobbs for the first time in about 10 days, and
> found my combination switch has broken and headlights (bright beams) now
> come
> on occasionally by themselves. About to tear into the sucker and see if I
> can fix it. With my lack of mechanical ability, odds are pretty poor. >>
>
> This is a very common failure/poor design. It's not readily
> repairable since there is a little internal plastic piece that has
> snapped in two. Some of your options are:
>
> Leave as is - not recomended since on occasion the switch
> will fall into the headlight flashing position when the car is off
> and run down the battery. Been there, done that!
> At least disconnect the high beam wires.
>
> Replace with a used TR7 switch which is identical, although
> the lever needs to be bent straight. For some reason, TR7s
> appears to be much more common in the salvage yards than
> Spitfires...hmmm...
>
> I personally mounted a two pole switch under the dash for
> low beams/high beams. I DID lose the ability to flash the
> lights, but I'm thinking of installing a momentary
> push button switch for that.
>
> Good luck!
>
> -Greg
|