Don't quote me on this, because I've never tried, but I'd be surprised
if you can comfortably get to the solenoid from below the car - I think
the chasis/gearbox mounting are in the way, and there's not enough
clearance between the chasis and the floor to comfortably reach through
the gap.
But Dave - you should definitely check out all the wiring too, and I
know that this can only be done from above. First remove the gearbox
tunnel as described in Haynes, but replace the gearstick. Towards the
front of the car, mounted on the gearbox, is a unit with two wires
coming out of it (the inhibitor switch). The resistance between to two
wires should be 0 when in 3rd or 4th, open circuit at all other times
(test with a multi-meter or a test lamp). One of the two wires should
have 12V when the ignition is on. The other goes to the switch in the
gearstick. There should be 0 resistance between this and one of the
wires on the solenoid when the switch is in the "In" position. Finally,
there's an earth wire that goes from the solenoid to the gearbox case.
As for the solenoid, I suspected a similar problem a while ago. It
turned out to be wiring, but James Carepenter e-mailed me this from the
official Repair and Operation Manual (thanks James!). Since then, I've
bought a copy myself, and it is highly recommended - although I would
suggest in conjunction with Haynes, not as a replacement as James
suggests. (No financial interest...)
Hope the car's ok. Definitely don't be put off by the overdrive problem
if the car's fine in every other respect - just use it as a bargaining
chip! And let us know the outcome whatever!
Dean
----------------------
>----------
>From: James Carpenter[SMTP:jc_carpenter@softhome.net]
>Sent: 02 March 1999 00:18
>To: Dean Dashwood; 'Spitfire List'
>Subject: Re: Overdrive story
>
>Here is why the totally crap and dismal Haynes manual I have went straight
>out the window. I got the official BL Triumph Spitfire 1500 Repair and
>Operation Manual. Published by BL Cars Ltd, part no AKM4329. It gives you
>almost everything (apart from the panelling layout) you would need to know
>about the car. And almost all the Usual Suspects can supply you with it. I
>never use a Haynes any more. I don't suffer from any overdrive problems, it
>never give me any problems on the road, because it's in bit's 60 miles away
>in my Parents garage in Oxfordshire. Of course that's only my personal
>view of Haynes I would urge you not to belive me.
>
>Workshop Give reason for failure
>
>Insufficient Oil - Top up
>Solenoid not energising - Check electric's
>Solenoid energising but not operating - remove and check operation of valve
>
>Insufficient pressure - no a DIY thing
>Pump Damaged - Remove check - Major operation
>Internal Damage - Major operation
>
>Solenoid - Test
>1. Connect the solenoid in series with a 12-volt battery and ammeter/
>2. The solenoid should draw @2 amps.
>3. Check that the plunger in the valve moves forward when the solenoid is
>energised.
>4. Check that the plunger in the valve returns to it's direct drive position
>by spring pressure when the solenoid is de-energised.
>NOTE: The solenoid does not operate with a loud click as the other types of
>overdrive.
>5. If the still faulty the complete unit must be renewed.
>
>Solenoid removal, you need a thin 1' spanner, on the hexagonal nut.
>
>Solenoid Operating Valve Overhaul
>
>1. Remove the solenoid and operating valve
>2. Should it be necessary to clean the operating valve, immerse this part of
>the solenoid valve in paraffin (kerosene?) until the valve is clean.
>3. Examine the 'O' rings on the solenoid valve for damage, and renew
>together with a sealing washer if necessary.
>4. Fit the solenoid and operating valve.
>
>The workshop manual is really well illustrated, and I would urge all of you
>who haven't got it to buy it immediately, it's probably the best £12 I have
>spent.
>
>----------
>From: Joe Curry[SMTP:spitlist@gte.net]
>Sent: 18 June 1999 03:53
>To: Dave Chu
>Cc: Mark Gardner; spitfires@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: Intermittnet O/D
>
>
>Dave, Of course you are correct. I was thinking of my D-Type which is
>on the right. The J- type is on the left. B ut are you sure it cannot
>be accessed from below?
>
>Joe
>
>Dave Chu wrote:
>>
>> In message <3769AE23.15F8@ix.netcom.com>you write:
>> >
>> >Thanks for the speedy reply Joe - Can the solenoid be accessed from in
>> >the car or under the car? Left side or right side? I'm digging into my
>> >Haynes manual tonight, any other insights would be welcome.
>> >
>> It is on the driver side and it must be from the top. That means you will
>> have to take the tunnel cover off. You can take the solenoid off, but it
>>is
>> not easy. There is not much room there for a wrench. I had a similar
>> problem with my O/D and it turned out to be the switch.
>>
>> Dave |\ | | |
>> Dave Chu \/ \/ | /| | |
>> Dept. of Elec. & Comp. Eng. |/ | | |
>> Concordia University Voice:(514)848-3115 Fax:(514)848-2802
>> 1455 de Maisonneuve W. H961 Email:dave@ece.concordia.ca
>> Montreal, Quebec, Canada H3G 1M8
>>http://www.ece.concordia.ca/~dave/addr.html
>>
>>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>>~~
>
>--
>"If you can't excel with talent, triumph with effort."
> -- Dave Weinbaum in National Enquirer
>
|