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Re: SU carb questions

To: "Kevin B. Rhodes" <krhodes1@maine.rr.com>
Subject: Re: SU carb questions
From: James <james.carpenter@ukaea.org.uk>
Date: Fri, 12 Jun 1998 14:20:17 +0000
First do your valve clearences, checking your valve spring strength at
the same time. 

I think your right, but I think you need to play spot the bodge. 
Carburetters are not a dificult or as nasty as people make believe, but
you have to know what you are doing, and once you have done it, don't
tweek.  The spair vachum hole is not the one that is supposed to go to
the Distributer?  Or was ther a vachume meter on the car before. 

Take the carbs off, and take a toothbrush and what we over here call
paraffin, the stuff you burn in greenhouse heaters.  Unbolt the float
boles and remove compleate with jets.  Take tooth brush and parafin to
all the rest and get it shining, do NOT use any thing abraisive on any
working surfaces i.e. the dash pots.   Strip and re-assemble each carb
one at a time.  The other is ideal for reference, you will probebly find
the spring on the carb that has the sticking choke has come off the
catch.  Do this carb first an put it back together as per the working
carb...

Do the checks and other stuff as per the manuals.

Set up the balance so that both butterflys are at 90 deg on full
throughtle.  Then do the tuning thing.  
  
Grab hold of the spindels, and shake up and down, if there is movement,
then you have a vacume leak there.  You need realy to get it re-bushed,
my car needs this, in reality I will try putting someting to stop the
leaks for abit.

If your realy good that will  only take a couple of hours.  

-- 
James Carpenter
Yellow '79 spit wired by a trained marmot

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