Worked like a charm. Thank you, George.
I have learned, when I go to the parts store for wheel studs (they just have
them out there in drawers DIY) to take a micrometer with me to measure the
diameter of the splined portion. They must have two dozen different
varieties of M12 x 1.5 studs, with wide variation in the diameter of the
splined area.
This car got new hubs and bearings with its 96 brake upgrade. I think maybe
the hubs were not a quality brand because the studs have gotten rusty, and I
don't drive this car in the winter. Saint George forgive me, but I've taken
to putting a dab of anti-sieze on studs. Call me a fanatic but I put
anti-sieze on most fasteners I put into my cars.
VO
----- Original Message -----
Install it yourself on the car, with the wheel removed, so that you can see
more easily the progress of the seating of the stud. Hammer the old one out
from the front, and install the new one from the back. Use the lug nut
upside down so that the larger top side of the nut takes the load, rather
than the smaller tapered shoulder. Tighten until it seats. Then install
the wheel and tighten to specs as above. (Flip the nut right side up...but
you knew to do that, right?)
You can check torque again in a day or so, but I'll bet it won't have
changed.
George
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