To: | Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net>, shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net> |
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Subject: | Re: [Shop-talk] stud removal |
From: | David Scheidt <dmscheidt@gmail.com> |
Date: | Thu, 8 Apr 2021 14:14:40 -0500 |
Delivered-to: | mharc@autox.team.net |
Delivered-to: | shop-talk@autox.team.net |
References: | <B2.81.06432.97247606@mta1.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> <2DD4FC7D-EA6F-487F-BCA5-C2CE1D7AEF67@icloud.com> <eabeece1-e490-cc8f-4257-c9c9942c91af@teleport.com> <SA0PR19MB46343AF86F23587395BE84B1B47A9@SA0PR19MB4634.namprd19.prod.outlook.com> <CAEbvuykKTsVj=-pEdb90hC0azc3ry1JOHk__ALB3GHyqFUw00Q@mail.gmail.com> <DC.1C.13592.3DE4E606@mta4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net> |
On Wed, Apr 7, 2021 at 7:36 PM Steven Trovato <strovato@optonline.net> wrote: > > What are you guys using to remove studs? I see various tools that > have teeth that dig into the stud. That is OK when you are replacing > them, but sometimes you don't want them damaged. I usually just lock > two nuts together and remove that way. I see some stud removal sets > that essentially do the same thing. Two parts lock together. I'm > not seeing the advantage to this. Nuts are a lot cheaper. Am I > missing something? Most of the tools will work on a stud that's shorter than two nuts. They're also easier to use on a stud where you don't have room to get a wrench on the bottom nut. you can also use them with an impact gun, which saves time. If a flat-rate mechanic is removing a stud, it's not going back in. -- David Scheidt dmscheidt@gmail.com _______________________________________________ Shop-talk@autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive |
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