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Others, with more experience and, maybe, a 'pro' will offer advice, but
we--my father and I--were in the same position a few years ago. I bought
this kit:
https://www.harborfreight.com/professional-automotive-hvlp-spray-gun-kit-94572.html
and we used it to paint a fairly valuable old British sports car (it
came out OK, not great). We used a one-stage paint; I'd have to go to
the shop to find out for sure, but I believe it was one of the DuPont
brands, not top-of-the-line, but not cheap either. I'd only painted one
car before, a junky Subaru Brat, and this was my first use of HVLP. My
impression of the HF paint gun is that it's a competent tool for the
price, but it was trial-and-error for me. I got quite a bit of orange
peel, maybe because I used insufficient pressure at the gun; my dad said
that one of the paint dealers told him we should 'crank the pressure
up,' apparently the Low Pressure part of HVLP was more for environmental
reasons than getting a good coat of paint. If you watch the pros on the
TV shows they pretty mug 'fog it on;' and since you probably don't have
a booth and you're painting outdoors or in a shop wait for a
no/little-wind day with no insects around, and wet the floor and the
walls to keep dust down,
You'll want to put a oil/water separator inline after the compressor
tank, and whatever gun you buy, be sure to put a filter and a pressure
gauge at the gun; something like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Spray-Gun-Filter-Kit-HDA11900/305171973
Practice on old sheetmetal, plywood, whatever you've got lying around to
get a feel for the gun. As always, preparation is 90% of the job; sand
down to bare metal if you can, if not at least sand down to primer or
the last really good coat of paint, then use one of the spray cleaners
like this:
https://www.eastwood.com/ew-pre-painting-prep-aerosol-11oz.html?SRCCODE=PLA00020&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9LXhh5qY6QIViPhkCh3c4ACIEAQYBCABEgIaE_D_BwE
and a microfiber cloth. Use a primer/sealer if you don't go to bare
metal, or and epoxy primer if you do (esp. if you have to let the job
sit in primer for more than a couple days). Sand the primer down to 600
or 800 grit, apply one or more coats of base color--with no more than 20
minutes between them--let dry for a couple days then wet sand until
you're happy with the finish. Finish off with successive applications
of finer grades of liquid polishing compounds.
Also stumbled across this (note I didn't read it, it just looked
useful): https://tcpglobal.com/pages/paint-problem-solver ; There's lots
of videos online (Kevin Tetz has some good ones).
Good luck.
Bob
ps. There's always a 'learning curve.'
On 5/3/2020 9:54 AM, eric--- via Shop-talk wrote:
> Ok, so "Sandford" by big work truck is currently undergoing some major
> body work and will be getting new paint. Both myself and my buddy
> haven't painted a car since the late 80's.
>
> I see there are many different type of sprayers out there for
> automotive finishes.
> There are the traditional sprayers with the can under the gun (and
> what I already have and used in the 80s.)
> Then there are HVLP sprayers with the cups on top.
> I also noticed these types seem to be the new norm...
> _https://www.harborfreight.com/64-oz-professional-hvlp-air-spray-gun-kit-62895.html_
>
> So, here are my requirements. I am painting this truck, which is a
> work truck and does NOT need an awesome finish. I also don't mind
> buying new tools.
>
> So, do I spring for the 'pro' model HF? I will most likely not be
> painting another car for a decade (maybe) so I don't think I need to
> get into real pro brands and pay top dollar. But I may paint here and
> there, NEVER for show, just for work stuff.
>
> Or, do I paint with the old style I already have?
>
> What is the advantages? Is there any learning curve?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mule
>
> "Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a
> rational being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your
> territory." Ralph Waldo Emerson
> -Who is John Galt?
>
>
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Others, with more experience and, maybe, a 'pro' will offer advice,
but we--my father and I--were in the same position a few years ago.
I bought this kit:<br>
<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="https://www.harborfreight.com/professional-automotive-hvlp-spray-gun-kit-94572.html";>https://www.harborfreight.com/professional-automotive-hvlp-spray-gun-kit-94572.html</a><br>
<br>
and we used it to paint a fairly valuable old British sports car (it
came out OK, not great). We used a one-stage paint; I'd have to go
to the shop to find out for sure, but I believe it was one of the
DuPont brands, not top-of-the-line, but not cheap either. I'd only
painted one car before, a junky Subaru Brat, and this was my first
use of HVLP. My impression of the HF paint gun is that it's a
competent tool for the price, but it was trial-and-error for me. I
got quite a bit of orange peel, maybe because I used insufficient
pressure at the gun; my dad said that one of the paint dealers told
him we should 'crank the pressure up,' apparently the Low Pressure
part of HVLP was more for environmental reasons than getting a good
coat of paint. If you watch the pros on the TV shows they pretty
mug 'fog it on;' and since you probably don't have a booth and
you're painting outdoors or in a shop wait for a no/little-wind day
with no insects around, and wet the floor and the walls to keep dust
down,<br>
<br>
You'll want to put a oil/water separator inline after the compressor
tank, and whatever gun you buy, be sure to put a filter and a
pressure gauge at the gun; something like this:
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Spray-Gun-Filter-Kit-HDA11900/305171973";>https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Spray-Gun-Filter-Kit-HDA11900/305171973</a>
Practice on old sheetmetal, plywood, whatever you've got lying
around to get a feel for the gun. As always, preparation is 90% of
the job; sand down to bare metal if you can, if not at least sand
down to primer or the last really good coat of paint, then use one
of the spray cleaners like this:<br>
<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="https://www.eastwood.com/ew-pre-painting-prep-aerosol-11oz.html?SRCCODE=PLA00020&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9LXhh5qY6QIViPhkCh3c4ACIEAQYBCABEgIaE_D_BwE";>https://www.eastwood.com/ew-pre-painting-prep-aerosol-11oz.html?SRCCODE=PLA00020&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9LXhh5qY6QIViPhkCh3c4ACIEAQYBCABEgIaE_D_BwE</a><br>
<br>
and a microfiber cloth. Use a primer/sealer if you don't go to bare
metal, or and epoxy primer if you do (esp. if you have to let the
job sit in primer for more than a couple days). Sand the primer
down to 600 or 800 grit, apply one or more coats of base color--with
no more than 20 minutes between them--let dry for a couple days then
wet sand until you're happy with the finish. Finish off with
successive applications of finer grades of liquid polishing
compounds.<br>
<br>
Also stumbled across this (note I didn't read it, it just looked
useful): <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="https://tcpglobal.com/pages/paint-problem-solver";>https://tcpglobal.com/pages/paint-problem-solver</a>
There's
lots of videos online (Kevin Tetz has some good ones).<br>
<br>
Good luck.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
ps. There's always a 'learning curve.'<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/3/2020 9:54 AM, eric--- via
Shop-talk wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:OFE5CAD8D7.AC486773-ON8525855D.005C1ADA-8525855D.005CDB47@mail.megageek.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;
charset=windows-1252">
<span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">Ok, so
"Sandford"
by big work truck is currently undergoing some major body work
and will
be getting new paint. Both myself and my buddy haven't painted
a
car since the late 80's.</span>
<br>
<br>
<span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">I see there
are
many different type of sprayers out there for automotive
finishes.</span>
<br>
<span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">There are the
traditional sprayers with the can under the gun (and what I
already have
and used in the 80s.)</span>
<br>
<span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">Then there
are
HVLP sprayers with the cups on top.</span>
<br>
<span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">I also
noticed
these types seem to be the new norm...</span>
<br>
<a
href="https://www.harborfreight.com/64-oz-professional-hvlp-air-spray-gun-kit-62895.html";
moz-do-not-send="true"><span style="
font-size:12pt;color:blue"><u>https://www.harborfreight.com/64-oz-professional-hvlp-air-spray-gun-kit-62895.html</u></span></a><span
style=" font-size:12pt">
</span>
<br>
<br>
<span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">So, here are
my
requirements. I am painting this truck, which is a work truck
and
does NOT need an awesome finish. I also don't mind buying new
tools.</span>
<br>
<br>
<span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">So, do I
spring
for the 'pro' model HF? I will most likely not be painting
another
car for a decade (maybe) so I don't think I need to get into
real pro brands
and pay top dollar. But I may paint here and there, NEVER for
show, just
for work stuff.</span>
<br>
<br>
<span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">Or, do I
paint
with the old style I already have?</span>
<br>
<br>
<span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">What is the
advantages?
Is there any learning curve?</span>
<br>
<br>
<span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">Thanks!</span>
<br>
<br>
<span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif">Mule</span>
<br>
<span style=" font-size:10pt;font-family:sans-serif"><br>
"Be as beneficent as the sun or the sea, but if your rights as a
rational
being are trenched on, die on the first inch of your territory."
Ralph
Waldo Emerson <br>
-Who is John Galt?</span>
<br>
<fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
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</blockquote>
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