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Wow =E2=80=93 thanks Karl =E2=80=93 lots of info there!! Makes me feel =
much better prepared to make an informed decision around all my plugs.
=20
Al Fuller
=20
'65 BJ-8
'85 Rx-7
=20
From: Karl Vacek [mailto:stearman809@gmail.com]=20
Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2018 6:21 PM
To: 'John Innis' <jdinnis@gmail.com>; 'Al Fuller' <al@bighealey.org>
Cc: 'shop-talk' <Shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Shop-talk] Spark Plug Cleaner
=20
Answers here to many things you didn=E2=80=99t ask about=E2=80=A6 About =
aircraft plugs, where blasting is the most common, but mostly applicable =
to car and small-engine plugs as well. FWIW, I=E2=80=99ve been blasting =
car plugs since the 60=E2=80=99s and aircraft plugs since the =
70=E2=80=99s.
=20
Blasting is still used on most aircraft plugs, same as ever. Aviation =
plugs cost $25-$50-$75 apiece and up, depending on type and how much of =
a bargain hunter you are. No big sales at the local auto parts store. =
Very few owners replace plugs at every Annual or 100-hour inspection. =
Piston aircraft engines have 2 plugs per cylinder, and flat engines most =
commonly have 4 or 6 cylinders. Radial engines usually have 7 or 9 =
cylinders (or 3 or 5 on some antiques), and the really big ones have =
multiple rows of 7 or 9 cylinders. Lots of plugs.
=20
The two largest aviation spark plug manufacturers, Champion and Tempest =
(originally AC) both publish blasting instructions and sell plug =
blasting/testing machines. Quite obviously they approve. Like a =
majority of individuals working mainly on their own planes, I =
don=E2=80=99t have one of these $1,000 to $1,500 machines. The =
=E2=80=9CVixen=E2=80=9D brand one that most auto parts stores still sell =
for under $20 works just fine. It doesn=E2=80=99t have the impressive =
pressure-tester where you see the spark jumping while the plug is under =
pressure, but that test isn=E2=80=99t really helpful 99.9% of the time =
as long as you do a good job of cleaning.
=20
As far as abrasive, I use a garnet abrasive because it indeed breaks =
down and exposes fresh sharp edges. Most auto parts stores sell little =
bags specifically for use in plug blasters. And if a garnet particle =
gets into the engine despite careful magnified inspection as part of my =
reconditioning, that particle won=E2=80=99t do as much damage as =
aluminum oxide. But it=E2=80=99s probably not critical as long as you =
get all the abrasive out in the first place before reinstalling the =
plug. Either way, abrasive is cheap to buy and lasts through many many =
plugs.
=20
There isn=E2=80=99t actually a shiny coating or glaze on the center or =
nose insulator, and the ceramic itself isn=E2=80=99t degraded much by =
normal light blasting. What the aviation plug manufacturers DO caution =
about, however, it to avoid eroding the cement that holds the center =
electrode into the insulator. With extended blasting the cement erodes =
and a well develops around the center electrode. Not sure how bad it =
needs to get to be an issue =E2=80=93 I have some plugs with slight =
erosion and they work fine, don=E2=80=99t foul notably different than =
new ones, etc.
=20
To get the initial carbon off (because its=E2=80=99 a really slow =
process to blast 14 plugs completely without doing some initial carbon =
removal), I first use Hoppe=E2=80=99s #9. Just set the plugs upside =
down in a rack and drop in enough Hoppe=E2=80=99s to fill the plug =
interior. Wait an hour (15 minutes is actually enough most times), dump =
out the Hoppe=E2=80=99s, and spray carb cleaner or Brakleen into the =
plug to get much of the carbon out. Then blow dry, and then blast. =
Speeds up the process immensely, especially getting the deep carbon out =
or at least softened.
=20
While cleaning, some of the carbon inside the plug=E2=80=99s outer steel =
shell is hard to remove. Champion (etc.) sells a plug cutter tool =
that=E2=80=99s like a tiny curved saw blade, made to fit into a =
vibrating engraver-type tool. That makes fast work of the excess carbon =
around the outside. Carbon on the center insulator usually comes off =
pretty easily. Once you think you=E2=80=99re pretty much done.. you =
visually inspect the inside for missed deposits and any remaining =
abrasive. A dental pick helps there.
=20
The other thing that=E2=80=99s important in reconditioning aviation =
plugs is to check the resistance. There=E2=80=99s a resistor in =
virtually every modern aircraft plug, not for RF suppression but for =
good running. If the resistance decreases (it can over time) the plug =
will develop a misfire. RF suppression is handled by shielding of the =
magnetos, cables, and the plugs themselves, which have a heavy steel =
outer case. You never even see the ceramic outside like you do on an =
automotive plug (except for unshielded aircraft plugs, which are =
increasingly rare).
=20
Massive electrode plugs have a large center electrode and (usually two) =
large side electrodes that are shaped to surround the center electrode. =
The side electrodes can be bent in and out to set the gap. While plug =
inspection and cleaning is part of every 100-hour and annual inspection, =
blasting can in time round off the edges of the electrodes and make the =
plugs less efficient, as the primary area for sparking to begin is at =
the sharp edges. I=E2=80=99ve taken an ignition file to the tops of my =
electrodes a few times on older plugs to remove some of the =
blasting-induced rounding. They look better, but I=E2=80=99m not sure =
it makes lots of difference in running.
=20
Plug manufacturers don=E2=80=99t recommend blasting on =
=E2=80=9Cfine-wire=E2=80=9D plugs, which are similar to platinum, etc. =
automotive plugs except the side electrode is a thin piece of platinum =
or iridium. Those come pre-gapped and all you=E2=80=99re supposed to do =
is verify the gap, and if it=E2=80=99s incorrect replace the plug. At =
$75 apiece minimum. But they don=E2=80=99t foul much, which is why =
they=E2=80=99re used, and they last a long time.
=20
Final caveat. Shielded aviation plugs are all heavy steel on the =
outside. All the ceramic is inside. If you drop one, it looks fine. =
Even after carefully inspecting it, all the ceramic looks fine every =
time.
=20
But there=E2=80=99s an old aircraft mechanic=E2=80=99s saying that you =
only drop a plug twice. First time on the floor, and the second time =
into the garbage can. I=E2=80=99ve violated that a few times, but =
75-80% of the time the plug is either bad immediately or goes bad =
quickly =E2=80=93 within a few hours at most. I=E2=80=99ve marked the =
plugs I=E2=80=99ve dropped and attempted to reuse, but after a few times =
realizing that the old saying is right, I haven=E2=80=99t reused any =
more dropped plugs. A bad miss or worse really gets your attention in =
the air.
=20
Have a blast !!
=20
Karl
=20
=20
=20
=20
From: Shop-talk [mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of =
John Innis
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2018 8:02 PM
To: Al Fuller
Cc: shop-talk
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Spark Plug Cleaner
=20
Only time I ever used one was on aircraft type plugs. Auto and small =
engine plugs are cheap, I throw them away. Aircraft plugs also have =
"massive" electrodes, and can tolerate some quite a bit more material =
loss.
=20
On Sat, Oct 20, 2018 at 7:53 PM Al Fuller <al@bighealey.org =
Anybody still using spark plug cleaners =E2=80=93 such as the small air =
powered sand blasters of old?
=20
I=E2=80=99m looking at plugs for several cars, snow blower, etc. =
=E2=80=93 and wondering whether the cleaning is known to damage the =
plugs. I don=E2=80=99t recall that being an issue when I used them =
years ago, nut I do confess that the newer plugs seem to be made of more =
exotic materials.
=20
Thoughts?=20
=20
Al Fuller
=20
'65 BJ-8
'85 Rx-7
=20
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com
--=20
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D Never offend people with style when you =3D
=3D can offend with substance --- Sam Brown =3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Wow =E2=80=93 thanks Karl =E2=80=93 lots of info there!!=C2=A0 Makes me =
feel much better prepared to make an informed decision around all my =
plugs.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>Al Fuller</span><span style=3D'color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:black'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>'65 BJ-8</span><span style=3D'color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
>'85 Rx-7</span><span =
style=3D'color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> =
Karl Vacek [mailto:stearman809@gmail.com] <br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, =
October 21, 2018 6:21 PM<br><b>To:</b> 'John Innis' =
<jdinnis@gmail.com>; 'Al Fuller' =
<al@bighealey.org><br><b>Cc:</b> 'shop-talk' =
<Shop-talk@autox.team.net><br><b>Subject:</b> RE: [Shop-talk] =
Spark Plug Cleaner<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>Answers here to many things you didn=E2=80=99t ask about=E2=80=A6 =
About aircraft plugs, where blasting is the most common, but mostly =
applicable to car and small-engine plugs as well. FWIW, =
I=E2=80=99ve been blasting car plugs since the 60=E2=80=99s and aircraft =
plugs since the 70=E2=80=99s.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>Blasting is still used on most aircraft plugs, same as ever. =
Aviation plugs cost $25-$50-$75 apiece and up, depending on type and how =
much of a bargain hunter you are. No big sales at the local auto =
parts store. Very few owners replace plugs at every Annual or =
100-hour inspection. Piston aircraft engines have 2 plugs per =
cylinder, and flat engines most commonly have 4 or 6 cylinders. =
Radial engines usually have 7 or 9 cylinders (or 3 or 5 on some =
antiques), and the really big ones have multiple rows of 7 or 9 =
cylinders. Lots of plugs.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>The two largest aviation spark plug manufacturers, Champion and Tempest =
(originally AC) both publish blasting instructions and sell plug =
blasting/testing machines. Quite obviously they approve. =
Like a majority of individuals working mainly on their own planes, I =
don=E2=80=99t have one of these $1,000 to $1,500 machines. The =
=E2=80=9CVixen=E2=80=9D brand one that most auto parts stores still sell =
for under $20 works just fine. It doesn=E2=80=99t have the =
impressive pressure-tester where you see the spark jumping while the =
plug is under pressure, but that test isn=E2=80=99t really helpful 99.9% =
of the time as long as you do a good job of =
cleaning.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>As far as abrasive, I use a garnet abrasive because it indeed breaks =
down and exposes fresh sharp edges. Most auto parts stores =
sell little bags specifically for use in plug blasters. And if a =
garnet particle gets into the engine despite careful magnified =
inspection as part of my reconditioning, that particle won=E2=80=99t do =
as much damage as aluminum oxide. But it=E2=80=99s probably not =
critical as long as you get all the abrasive out in the first place =
before reinstalling the plug. Either way, abrasive is cheap to buy =
and lasts through many many plugs.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>There isn=E2=80=99t actually a shiny coating or glaze on the center or =
nose insulator, and the ceramic itself isn=E2=80=99t degraded much by =
normal light blasting. What the aviation plug manufacturers DO =
caution about, however, it to avoid eroding the cement that holds the =
center electrode into the insulator. With extended blasting the =
cement erodes and a well develops around the center electrode. Not =
sure how bad it needs to get to be an issue =E2=80=93 I have some plugs =
with slight erosion and they work fine, don=E2=80=99t foul notably =
different than new ones, etc.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>To get the initial carbon off (because its=E2=80=99 a really slow =
process to blast 14 plugs completely without doing some initial carbon =
removal), I first use Hoppe=E2=80=99s #9. Just set the plugs =
upside down in a rack and drop in enough Hoppe=E2=80=99s to fill the =
plug interior. Wait an hour (15 minutes is actually enough most =
times), dump out the Hoppe=E2=80=99s, and spray carb cleaner or =
Brakleen into the plug to get much of the carbon out. Then blow =
dry, and then blast. Speeds up the process immensely, especially =
getting the deep carbon out or at least =
softened.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>While cleaning, some of the carbon inside the plug=E2=80=99s outer =
steel shell is hard to remove. Champion (etc.) sells a plug cutter =
tool that=E2=80=99s like a tiny curved saw blade, made to fit into =
a vibrating engraver-type tool. That makes fast work of the excess =
carbon around the outside. Carbon on the center insulator usually =
comes off pretty easily. Once you think you=E2=80=99re pretty much =
done.. you visually inspect the inside for missed deposits and any =
remaining abrasive. A dental pick helps =
there.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>The other thing that=E2=80=99s important in reconditioning aviation =
plugs is to check the resistance. There=E2=80=99s a resistor in =
virtually every modern aircraft plug, not for RF suppression but for =
good running. If the resistance decreases (it can over time) the =
plug will develop a misfire. RF suppression is handled by =
shielding of the magnetos, cables, and the plugs themselves, which have =
a heavy steel outer case. You never even see the ceramic outside =
like you do on an automotive plug (except for unshielded aircraft plugs, =
which are increasingly rare).<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>Massive electrode plugs have a large center electrode and (usually two) =
large side electrodes that are shaped to surround the center =
electrode. The side electrodes can be bent in and out to set the =
gap. While plug inspection and cleaning is part of every 100-hour =
and annual inspection, blasting can in time round off the edges of the =
electrodes and make the plugs less efficient, as the primary area for =
sparking to begin is at the sharp edges. I=E2=80=99ve taken an =
ignition file to the tops of my electrodes a few times on older plugs to =
remove some of the blasting-induced rounding. They look better, =
but I=E2=80=99m not sure it makes lots of difference in =
running.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>Plug manufacturers don=E2=80=99t recommend blasting on =
=E2=80=9Cfine-wire=E2=80=9D plugs, which are similar to platinum, etc. =
automotive plugs except the side electrode is a thin piece of platinum =
or iridium. Those come pre-gapped and all you=E2=80=99re supposed =
to do is verify the gap, and if it=E2=80=99s incorrect replace the =
plug. At $75 apiece minimum. But they don=E2=80=99t foul =
much, which is why they=E2=80=99re used, and they last a long =
time.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>Final caveat. Shielded aviation plugs are all heavy steel on the =
outside. All the ceramic is inside. If you drop one, it =
looks fine. Even after carefully inspecting it, all the ceramic =
looks fine every time.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>But there=E2=80=99s an old aircraft mechanic=E2=80=99s saying that you =
only drop a plug twice. First time on the floor, and the second =
time into the garbage can. I=E2=80=99ve violated that a few times, =
but 75-80% of the time the plug is either bad immediately or goes bad =
quickly =E2=80=93 within a few hours at most. I=E2=80=99ve marked =
the plugs I=E2=80=99ve dropped and attempted to reuse, but after a few =
times realizing that the old saying is right, I haven=E2=80=99t reused =
any more dropped plugs. A bad miss or worse really gets your =
attention in the air.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>Have a blast !!<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
>Karl<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#44546A'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif'>From:</span></=
b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif'> =
Shop-talk [<a =
href=3D"mailto:shop-talk-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:shop-talk-bounces=
@autox.team.net</a>] <b>On Behalf Of </b>John Innis<br><b>Sent:</b> =
Saturday, October 20, 2018 8:02 PM<br><b>To:</b> Al Fuller<br><b>Cc:</b> =
shop-talk<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Shop-talk] Spark Plug =
Cleaner<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>Only =
time I ever used one was on aircraft type plugs. Auto and small =
engine plugs are cheap, I throw them away. Aircraft plugs also =
have "massive" electrodes, and can tolerate some quite a bit =
more material loss.<o:p></o:p></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On =
Sat, Oct 20, 2018 at 7:53 PM Al Fuller <<a =
href=3D"mailto:al@bighealey.org">al@bighealey.org</a>> =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:5=
.0pt'><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Anybody =
still using spark plug cleaners =E2=80=93 such as the small air powered =
sand blasters of old?<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'> <o:p><=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>I=E2=80=99m =
looking at plugs for several cars, snow blower, etc. =E2=80=93 and =
wondering whether the cleaning is known to damage the plugs. I =
don=E2=80=99t recall that being an issue when I used them years ago, nut =
I do confess that the newer plugs seem to be made of more exotic =
materials.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'> <o:p><=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'>Thoughts? =
<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'> <o:p><=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Al Fuller</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'color:black'> </span><o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>'65 BJ-8</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>'85 Rx-7</span><o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'mso-margin-top-alt:auto;mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto'> <o:p><=
/o:p></p></div></div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>__________________________________________=
_____<br><br><a href=3D"mailto:Shop-talk@autox.team.net" =
target=3D"_blank">Shop-talk@autox.team.net</a><br>Donate: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Suggested =
annual donation $12.96<br>Archive: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk" =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk</a><br><br>Unsu=
bscribe/Manage: <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis@gmail.com=
" =
target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jdinnis=
@gmail.com</a><o:p></o:p></p></blockquote></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><br =
clear=3Dall><br>-- <o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<br>=3D Never offend people =
with style when you =3D<br>=3D can offend with substance --- =
Sam Brown =
=3D<br>=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<o:p></o:p></p></div></div></body></html=
>
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