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Re: [Shop-talk] Rock 1, Mower 0 ?

To: Eric J Russell <ejrussell@mebtel.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Rock 1, Mower 0 ?
From: Brian Kemp <bk13@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 15:49:08 -0700
Cc: shop-talk <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: shop-talk@autox.team.net
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Eric - Are you trying to run it without the blade?  If so, that might be 
part of the problem.  Check the blade for balance on a nail and it it is 
close, get a new shear key and put it back together to see how it runs.  
If the blade is badly bent, don't cut anything. If it runs normal, go 
for the new blade.  If it is bad, you can play with it in the shop or 
move on to a new mower and just be out the cost of the shear key.

I hit a small stump in leaves decades ago and broke the shear key. I 
replaced it and sharpened/balanced the blade and used the mower for a 
bunch of years.

Also check the bolts mounting the engine to the deck, but if the shear 
key worked, everything above it should be fine.

Brian


On 5/20/2013 3:34 AM, Eric J Russell wrote:
> Hit a large rock the lawn mower. (Briggs & Stratton engine in a Craftsman push
> mower) Bent the blade & sheared the key in the 'blade adapter'. The flywheel
> key is intact. With the blade & spark plug removed I can manually turn the
> engine but it feels like there are two unequally spaced tight areas with each
> revolution. The engine will run but it knocks & doesn't run at full speed.
>
> It is old enough that I don't want to bother wasting money on it (like a new
> blade adapter & blade) if it is likely fatally damaged. I assume the blade has
> some balancing/flywheel affect but shouldn't the engine manually rotate 360
> degrees smoothly without the blade?
>
> Ideas?
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
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