The green board is moisture-resistant sheetrock. The cement backer
boards are usually a gray color (from the cement). You don't want the
green stuff for a floor application. I would pick the thickest cement
board I could get that seemed reasonably solid.
The screws are called "tapcon", at least that is what one manufacturer
calls them. A lot of different manufacturers make them now and have
their own names for them.
I second the use of thin set to fill the gaps, even if it might not bond
to the original vinyl floor. I don't think bonding is essential if it
is attached where it can't move around, and if it is thick enough. For
instance many tile showers have a lining of a PVC sheet, with concrete,
thinset and tile applied over that, and it is solid enough and works
fine. The layer on top of the PVC sheet is thick enough to maintain its
own integrity. However some thinset has latex in it and might be able
to bond to the vinyl flooring somewhat.
I've used the "cake frosting" material in the past and that stuff
eventually did get really hard.
> On Fri, Oct 28, 2011 at 8:11 PM, Karl Vacek<kvacek at ameritech.net> wrote:
>> Any advice will be appreciated.
> Not advice, per se, but thoughts...
>
> I'd use a hard backerboard, and I'd put the thinset down. Your goal
> should be to make a surface that doesn't flex; so you need the
> gap-filling of the thinset to make sure there aren't any voids under
> the board. If it's a slab in contact with the ground, I'd use the
> moisture-proof board (I think it's green around here). A stout board
> will make up the height easily and flex less.
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
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