Dude-
Now that we know what you're workin on, it will be much easier....Nine times
out of ten, the inner nuts on the TR3 spring pan will hit the frame before
they even reach the end of the studs. There was "almost" enough clearance to
remove them when they were new. I see by your pic, the bushings on the
fulcrum pin are "compromised" to say the least. This allows the pan to drop
even further and make those nuts a bugger to remove. Bite the bullet and use
an open end on all four as they will hit the frame before they are clear of
the stud...any other wrench will be "trapped" when the nut hits the frame.
(You may actually have to cut the studs if the bushings have allowed the
spring pan to settle too far). Once free of this engineering faux pas, either
use later a-arms that don't use a stud, or remove the stud and drill down thru
the hole so you can use a bolt/nut setup as the later cars do.
Often had my nuts trapped too...
Nick in Nor Cal
-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: 'Shop Talk' <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, May 21, 2010 11:03 am
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Funny wrench request
Thanks to all for the suggestions. Looks like the QuadBox is the best
olution available, so I'm going to run over to my local Ace in a bit and
ee if they have one in stock.
In case anyone is interested, here is a shot of the location in question,
ith the nut already removed. The nut in the foreground is actually 1/16"
maller than what should be in there, so you can see that the flange is
uite close to the nut.
ttp://tinyurl.com/2bzwo3e
And the angle of that shot makes the area seem rather roomier than it is,
ere's another one (other side, with the pan/flange removed) that better
hows how close the frame member is:
ttp://tinyurl.com/2au5dxc
-- Randall
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