Phil
I'm no expert, but have used Hardi siding and am in love with it!
I'd suggest the traditional clapboards. It looks just like a regular
clapboard siding without a lot of the long-term headaches.
Cut it with a carbide tipped Skil saw, You'll need to sharpen the
blades a little more often than if cutting wood. My carpenters
simply nailed it with galvanized nails, if my memory is correct.
I don't recall any reason for stainless steel fasteners. Check with
the manufacturer, I'm sure it will be mentioned in their literature.
We simple used latex paint, nothing special. It covers beautifully!
I'd say it is more durable than cedar. We've even used it to replace
some damaged areas on our kennel building where the dogs had
'worn-away' some of the reachable areas of the cedar.
I don't see how it can rot your sheathing, especially if you're using
the clapboards. The clapboards, by their very definition and design,
allow for breathing. Of course, you'll want to use building wrap for
best protection.
Asking about other material for me is an interesting question. For
any remodel or new construction of this type, I'd go with Hardiboard.
However, we're getting ready to build a new house and we're going
with a unique form of ICF (Insulated Concrete Form) material called
Rastra (www.rastra.com). Check it out for new construction, it's not
designed for remodeling or recovering existing materials.
Good luck
Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net>
To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Cc: <pethier@isd.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2003 7:09 PM
Subject: fiber-cement siding?
>
> OK, I am focusing my question about the siding for my shop and for my
house.
>
> I have a mix of vinyl (only 4 years old, yet broken here and there on the
> neighbor's side) and ancient hardboard on the shop/garage. I have pink
(may
> be original?) aluminum on the 1950-vintage house. This stuff is a mess.
> The individual corner pieces are askew. There are holes drilled in it
here
> and there for now-unknown reasons.
>
> I was just down at Menards looking at a fiber-cement product. Has a
50-year
> warranty. Claims it can't rot. Looks like it can take a hit without
> breaking.
>
> The stuff comes two ways:
>
> One. Traditional clapboards, to be placed individually. 12 feet long.
Just
> as slow to put up as the cedar stuff, but should last. Costs about 80
bucks
> a square. I know the This Old House bunch has used the clapboards.
>
> Two. 4 x 8 sheets, molded to resemble vertical boards. This stuff should
> go up fast. On the house, the 8-foot height would come to the top of the
> windows. A filler about 11 inches high would bring it to the bottom of
the
> suffix. The horizontal seam is supposed to carry a "SO" flashing, which
> makes sense to me. On the shop/garage, the 8-foot height will do the job
in
> one pass. Vertical seams are supposed to be sealed with silicone, which I
> am not as sure about. Costs about 60 bucks a square.
>
> Both kinds come primed and are supposed to be painted.
>
> Does anyone know anything about this stuff?
>
> How do you cut it?
>
> How do you fasten it? Stainless nails in a (rented?) nail gun sounds like
> the fast way. Stainless screws sounds a lot slower.
>
> What paint do you put on it?
>
> How long should the paint last?
>
> Is it as durable to physical hits as cedar?
>
> Does it rot out your sheathing?
>
> What other material would be better and why?
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1970 Lotus Europa 65/2597, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1986 Suburban, 1962 TR4
CT2846L
> pethier@isd.net http://www.mnautox.com/ http://www.lotusowners.com
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