Tip -- assemble the pieces, then heat the heavier piece until the
solder will melt on the cooler side (away from the heat) of the
lighter piece right near the junction. As soon as this happens, you
should be able to remove the heat and the melting solder will wick
into the joint, flowing from the cooler spot toward the hotter. Works
a treat. Capillary action allows you to sweat fittings with the
heaver piece above the lighter (say a copper pipe entering a valve
from below) by doing the exact procedure as above.
As others have mentioned, cleanliness is a must. I use sandpaper
on the mating surfaces, heat slightly and spread flux on both
surfaces, then assemble without ever touching the mating surfaces
again. Never a leak in probably a fifty or so joints over the last 35
years. (touch wood :)
Donald.
P.S. I usually disassemble valves before sweating them into the pipe
system, to prevent heat damage to non-metallic seals or whatever. I'm
not sure that is required these days, but I hate to go back for parts.
> From: LBC286@aol.com
> Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 09:37:38 EST
>
>
> My son and I started putting in the water pipes to the new kitchen sink in my
> new house. I am NOT a plumber! My son has sweated a few pipes, but he ain't
> the greatest either. I can't imagine this is like rocket science, so I am
> going to ask a stupid question here, and see if I can get it to work.
>
> I picked up new ball valve shut offs for under the sink. Cast brass fittings
> for 1/2" pipe. We can't get the solder to flow into the joints. Can anyone
> 'splain what we may be doing wrong? I know how to do electronic soldering,
> and it looks to me like it isn't getting hot enough, although the solder
> melts easily on the metal. Cleaned all the fittings and used plenty of flux.
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