We have the steel brush and sandpaper and cleaned everything well. Water in
the pipe is not a problem. We are assembling the riser first (outside), then
we will stick the end thru the bottom of the cabinet and the floor, and sweat
it into the elbow in the basement.
This really looks like an easy installation, and I wish I knew more about
plumbing. I just couldn't afford the $500 for a real plumber, after buying
the house. I am hoping some common sense and logical thinking will see me
thru!
I will look into MAPP, which I wanted to pick up anyway. Can you use a MAPP
cylinder on any propane nozzle. or is there a special one for MAPP? I know
you can use propane with a MAPP torch.
Thanks,
Allen Hefner
- - - - - - - - - - - - -
In a message dated 12/5/01 11:06:04 AM Eastern Standard Time, fickes@acm.org
writes:
> I sweated many brass ball valves into my plumbing when I redid the house.
> (it used to be a mix of copper, iron and lead) Had no problems, but made
> sure to use a steel brush cleaner (looks like a car battery terminal brush)
> on all the female connections, and sandpaper on all the male ends. Then
> flux
> everything up well. If you got the valve hot enough to melt solder on the
> outside, did the solder stick or just drip off? It has to be hot enough to
> stick. Also, it helps to have open faucets in the line so you don't build
> pressure in the line which can blow the solder out. Also better if there is
> no water in the line, for the same reason.
>
> It sounds like it's not hot enough to me too. I use a MAPP torch instead of
> propane, can't get enough heat from propane to do it in a reasonable time.
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