I would guess it's heavier than 2500 lbs. I just completed a 10x16 shed and
from
offloading the raw materials, I'm convinced I went way over that.
Nevertheless, I once moved a smaller shed by using two 4x4's as skids and used
my
truck to drag it into position. (You could use more.) I cut a radius on the
front of the skids so they were curved up like a ski. 4WD was probably
essential
in getting a good pull. To get the "skids" under, I jacked the building up with
hydraulic jacks on each corner until I had enough clearance. Put the skids
under, lowered it back down, toe nailed them into place (angle brackets would be
better), made an anchor point for the tow strap, and pulled it across my lawn.
No wheels, no rollers, just some scratched up grass. Taking it off the skids
was
the reverse of getting it on. And, of course, the new foundation points were
laid out in position before I dragged the shed over it. These were simply other
4x4's leveled on the ground, and spaced so that the "skids" would span them.
The entire process was far easier than I imagined it would be.
Rex Burkheimer - WM wrote:
> Here's the deal: I have a 1-year-old wooden storage building, well-built,
> 12x16. Probably weighs 2500 lbs (guessing). We are moving into the house
> that goes with it, and I really need to move it before I fill it up. The
> basic reason is I intend to build a 4-car garage/shop where it sits.
> It needs to go around some trees and rocks, slightly uphill, about 45
> feet. It would go backwards at a small angle, then to the right.
> Orientation would be the same.
> It does not have those big 4x12 cedar "skis" you see on some, it has 3
> longitudinal 4x4s under it.
> Several have suggested log rollers, but the terrain and the orientation
> of the 4x4s makes that a bad idea. I called the local "experts" and they
> said they didn't know how to get it moved. They scratched their heads and
> left.
>
> My best ideas:
> 1 - a small trailer that I can slide under it after jacking it up. Tow
> vehicle access would be iffy
> 2 - Build some temporary axles to attach to the base. The wheels would have
> to either on casters or attachable both lengthwise and crosswise.
> 3 - Attach casket handles around the perimeter and enlist a gang of local
> dayworkers. I doubt I can attach enough handles to make that work
> 4 - disassemble the building. The roof is shingled and probably would be too
> heavy to manage.
>
> Any suggestions or better ideas?
>
> Rex Burkheimer
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