In my book the epoxy cartridges are the only way to go for studs. Using
mollies actually weakens the surrounding concrete.
Filling the hole with regular concrete is a no-no. The concrete will be
very weak, and there is no guarantee of adhesion to the old concrete.
Sorry, no experience with the gun driven nails for this application.
I've only ever seen 'em used for less structurally intense purposes. If
the nails are long and fluted, you should get some reasonable grip out
of them.
Jon Rush
Jeff Cocking wrote:
>
> Check local codes. Some codes are requiring the sill to be bolted down for
> exterior walls. The easiest way to bolt it down is to drill the hole and
> use the two part epoxy cartridges. The cartridge usually made of glass,
> contains two vials. The cartridge is placed in the hole and the stud is
> hammered down on top of the cartridge. The force breaks the vials, mixes
> the epoxy and forces it around the stud. It is a great way to do a few
> anchor bolts, with out having to mix epoxy. Use square washers with the
> bolt, it has a larger area for holding down the sill. Most anchor bolts
> used for this are embedded in the concrete 6 to 8 inches.
>
> I have used the 22-caliber nail guns for putting up interior walls. It
> works very good. Get the correct charges. Use ear protection.
>
> If the codes are not requiring anchor bolts, the 22-caliber nail gun would
> be the easiest way to do it.
>
> jeff
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: shop-talk-owner@autox.team.net
> [mailto:shop-talk-owner@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Scott Hall
> Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2000 10:16 PM
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: attaching a 2x4 to concrete slab
>
> our new (to us) house has a soon-to-be garage. this part of the house was
> a living room, then a carport. now that we've got it, I want the carport
> to have garage doors. the opening was already framed (sorta) by the
> previous owners, and only needs some spacing and the doors installed.
>
> part of doing this will be framing the middle support for the doors, which
> the p/o didn't do. to do this, I've got to attach the framing to the
> floor/slab. at first, I thought I had to drill into it, and started to do
> that. I was thinking I'd have to drill out a hole big enough to drop a
> bolt into, then fill in with concrete, with the bolt sticking up enough to
> attach the sill plate to (like with a new slab). but, looking the the
> hardware store, it seems I have other options. I saw two ideas:
>
> a) a sort-of expansion bolt. I drill a smaller hole, lay the 2x4 on top
> of it and nail the expansion nail/bolt through it. it goes through the
> 2-by and expands once in the concrete. what I wonder about this is, will
> it *really* hold it down as tigh as I want it to? this thing didn't look
> very sturdy, and I thought it would bend itself instead of anchoring the
> wood to the slab. as well, the longest I could find was 2". that doesn't
> seem long enough to really hold this down.
>
> b) a rifle-cartridge-powered nail gun. this seemed to use .22 cal
> cartridges to fire nails into concrete. same concern here. the nails
> didn't look very substantial, although they were long(er). wouldn't a
> nail in concrete be easy to just pull out? I keep thinking I need
> something with threads here.
>
> anybody know about these, or otherwise have experience with attaching to
> an already cured slab? I want to do this once, right.
>
> thanks
>
> scott
|