Cheapest way and easiest way is to run a bead of construction adhesive on
the bottom of the plate and pound some concrete nails in with a real heavy
hammer. If you have ceiling joists then make the studs a little on the
long side so that they will be have to be forced in between the sole and
top plate.
...Art
On Mon, 21 Dec 1998, Ken Landaiche wrote:
>
> Out here in quake country we'd drill a hole for expansion bolts or
> epoxied in bolts to hold down the sole plate after the fact like that.
> The powder charge gizmos I have seen wouldn't have the kind of hold I'd
> want in a wall's sole plate. The epoxied bolts are actually the
> suggested method around here. Something I learned from the architect who
> drew up my garage plans was the the design requirements for wind loads
> were much higher than the ones for earthquake loads. I live about 20
> miles from the San Andreas fault, by the way.
>
> OF course, now that I have written all of that I have to ask, will this
> wall be free standing or does it tie into lots of other structure so
> that the sole plate only needs something to keep it from sliding on the
> floor?
>
> Ken Landaiche
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > Salvation for me is that the contractor got my garage
> > addition up before it
> > got REALLY cold, which it is slated to do within the week.
> > Now I can start
> > on the interior. First, I need to build the wall to separate
> > the garage
> > from the shop. I will need to put treated 2x6s on the floor
> > to be the sole
> > plate of this wall. What's the best way to fasten? A
> > powder-charge gizmo?
> > How do I know what fastener and charge to use?
> >
> > Phil Ethier Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> > Europa, Quantum Syncro, Suburban
> > LOON, VTR, TCVWC, MAC
> > pethier@isd.net http://www.visi.com/mac/
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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