-> There's enough controversy that I'm staying away. The other choices
-> are black iron (a traditional favorite), galvanized steel, and
-> copper.
If the building is already up and you want to go through the centers of
the studs, you have only two choices: PVC and copper. Unless you can
cut through the outside of the building to feed pipe through a corner.
If you notch the studs and lay the pipe in, or clamp the pipe to the
inside of the wall (ie block wall) you can use anything you want.
-> up: have the main line slope towards the tank and water trap, and all
-> the outlets above the main line. Then you only need on drain, and
-> it's at the water trap. Put an automatic drain on it and don't think
-> about it any more.
I started at knee level and sloped up, using risers to put the outlets
at 48". 48" seems to be good for electrical outlets too - you want them
conveniently accessible from a standing position. You don't want to be
crawling around on the floor to plug in an air hose.
My air lines tend to get kicked and tugged. I'm thinking about
mounting the actual chucks on short pieces of hose next time.
When I ran my air lines, I put the low spot just by the door, so I can
bleed any water when exiting the shop. I've been planning to put a
remote drain on the compressor too, but haven't got around to it, for
the same reason I haven't drained it in probably a year - too much junk
in the compressor shed. The thing'll probably rot through if I don't
drain it Real Soon Now.
-> I have a double-tub laundry sink in my current garage and it's
-> wonderful. The new garage has cold water; I'll probably put a sink
Something I've been looking at is one of those apartment-size washing
machines so I can wash grease rags. They're a royal PITA to clean.
By the way, a convenient place to put oily rags is in a plastic bucket
full of soapy water. I have one by the door. They won't spontaneously
combust in water, and the soap helps when you wash them later.
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