>
Mernon writes:
> I'll shortly be checking a ZY series R-type for possible purchase. Any
>feedback from current R owners appreciated. Am pretty familiar with the rust
problems etc.,
The following long ramble is just a series of my unstructured
thoughts based on the ownership of a 1954 R-Type.
Well, the rust problems of the bodywork are obvious and expensive,
but not excessively so, nor are they worse than any steel car of the
period from the U.K. At least the chassis should be in reasonable
shape (the bit that sweeps up over the rear axle is the most prone to
attack, but again, not that difficult for an experienced welder to
repair).
I have only driven the automatic versions briefly (mine, and others I
have driven, have been manual). The auto box is not great (they used
to be known as the 'slush pump'), but it does seem to work, albeit at
the expense of full economy. The manual box requires a long throw of
the lever, but it is light although it cannot be hurried. If you get
one that does not select the gears well (especially the problem of
sticking in 1st gear), then you will have to fiddle for ages.
There is nothing of note about the engine other than two oil
companies told me that unless one uses a straight 30 oil or fits a
modern spin-on type oil filter with much smaller mesh, then the front
crankshaft damper acts as a centrifuge and throws all the
particulates in the dirty oil onto the inside of the casing -
eventually seizing itself.
Naturally, the engine is a fairly expensive unit to overhaul, but if
you have to, it is possible to incorporate a few changes, some of
which appeared in the continental version (pistons etc. and a great
opportunity to lighten a few bits whilst you are in there).
On the British cocktail of unleaded fuel, you might have problems.
Obviously, if you spend most of your time polishing the bonnet and
standing next to it at a show in a muddy field on Sundays, then it
will not mind modern unleaded fuel, but if you want to use it as a
regular driver and cruise all day at the higher end of its speed
rating, then my car (and others I know of) are evidence that you will
get rapid valve-seat recession. Modern material spec. for both
hardened valve seats and valves is far superior to that of the early
1950s. On a related subject, it might be prudent to fit
aluminium-phosphor-bronze valve guides, the temperatures inside the
cylinder are a bit on the high side with unleaded fuel and every bit
of heat you can get out of there, the better. Oddly, although one
gets the seat recession as one might expect on the exhaust valves,
the inlets can suffer from heat and start to fatigue.
You are lucky, the manual says that the exhaust valves do not have to
be adjusted or checked - done at the factory before purchase!!
Curiously, RR makes a special tool to help you hold them whilst you
drop one of your two or three spanners just because you are trying to
reach under the exhaust manifold whilst doing the whole operation in
a strategically placed mirror! Horrid job, but worth getting it
right.
If you can find one at a reasonable price, the continental rear
differential makes it much nicer to cruise at 75mph + (and essential
if you fancy 100mph+). Over the years, one or two English companies
have produced Laycock-type overdrives for bolting on to the rear of
the gearbox.
Brakes, now if you look at the sheer number of mentions of these in
the service bulletins, you will realize that these will keep you out
of trouble for months (and you get really skilled at stripping them
down!). The front pair are hydraulic, but are not intended to work
at low speeds - and do not! In fact, you do not operate them
directly at all, the rear mechanical brakes come on, cause the
mechanical servo (on the side of the gearbox) to work, and a rod from
this presses on the hydraulic fluid master cylinder and then the
front brakes wake up. All the rods and linkages will need resetting,
as also the 'reaction rod length' [later cars] in the front drum
brakes, then they will really work well. They are pretty powerful
when adjusted, so you then get a frightful shock when you are doing a
three-point turn, or shuffling round the car park - they take many
feet to work if you are going forward and back slowly (remember, that
mechanical servo will not be contributing much other than free play
to be taken up and the front brakes will not come on at all). A
local bodywork restorer claims that these cars in London used to keep
him in a minor-repairs business when they were more numerous!
The double set of points leaves something to be desired and can be a
fiddle - the good news here is that Lumenition now makes an
electronic alternative that uses a chopper wheel. Whilst looking at
the ignition, it is pretty easy to make up a better set of ignition
leads; by buying some of the black silicone wire from Magnacore, you
will experience far less leakage in really damp conditions.
The suspension should be fine, if you get a graunching noise from the
front when you go over bumps, see if the bump-stop rubbers are still
there (they will not be!) before you pull out that 'broken' spring.
The rear shock absorbers/dampers might need replacing, the hard/soft
lever on the steering wheel should work if the gearbox pump and the
rear dampers are functioning. A horrid floaty ride, if they are not.
As far as the interior is concerned, those seats take an awful lot of
cow to cover them, so reupholstering is going to be serious money and
all the seat and door coverings are in leather. The headlining is
easy to do in 'West of England' Cloth and a 'Wilton'-type carpet will
do wonders for the floor. Alas, the heater is the most pathetic
attempt to warm the car I have ever encountered, and as there is no
ram effect (it hangs down under the passenger seat and just
recirculates the air), the blower motor will have to work if you live
anywhere other than California! The heater matrix is also used by a
Land-Rover model or two, so is still available.
Until you are moving > 2-3mph, the steering is extremely heavy,
through clever design, it then goes pretty light. There are two
English firms (well, one is Scottish) that can modify this to power
assisted (the owners are getting old and weak?) with as much
assistance as one wants - jolly expensive though.
If you need to uprate the headlamps, then Volvo 164 Halogen units
fit! There are several not too mud-plugging 16" radials available
for high mileage users (the Firestone ones I am using, made for
tarmac to be used on Range Rovers, are no louder than the standard,
short-lived crossply tyres). If authenticity is not as important as
usability, then you will want to replace that exhaust system with a
much less restrictive one, if you are getting serious about this,
then get someone to fabricate a tubular manifold/header as well!
It is not an easy car to work on yourself as far as accessibility is
concerned (well, considering how large it is), many of the jobs being
totally infuriating, however, once one gets stuck in, a wash of
appreciation overcomes one because so many of the parts are so well
made and a pleasure to deal with. It might be well-made, but you
have to remember that it is a 1950s English car, most jobs need doing
again and again!
Those who say it is a posh lorry (smart truck?) are probably correct,
but what a comfortable and lively one! Getting on for a thousand
miles in one go (not usual in Europe!) and one still feels
comfortable and alert - it is a pleasing blend of requiring enough
attention to keep one awake, without it being too tiring to drive.
Good luck
George
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George Mowat-Brown, Tel & Fax.: +44 (0)181 580 8430
High Point,
13 Borough Road, e-mail: geomowat@zetnet.co.uk
Isleworth,
Middlesex,
TW7 5DY,
U.K.
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