hey tom and the rest of you wanting electric fans
all i can say is RELAY, RELAY, RELAY.
if you install a fan-use a relay and use BIG fat wire to get the power
there.
puller fans are more efficient.
a shroud(if you can make one and make it fit right) will make all the
difference in the world.
proper shroud fitment means;
all edges sealed to radiator,
fan blades half in, half out of rear edge.
as far as coolant mix-antifreeze is NOT a coolant. it is a lubricant
and stops or slows freezing. it does not provide any cooling.
water is the best coolant.
use distilled water-does not leave mineral deposits.
a product that is like 'Water Wetter' is very good. its purpose is to
break water tension(like soap) and allow the water molecules to
actually touch the radiator and the engine block and asorb the heat.
otherwise the water just skims along those surfaces.
i havnt tried it but i was thinking about just putting in a few ounces
of soap... but no idea of bubbles or of it just burns off with heat or
what.
if you dont reach freezing temps more than 6-10 days/year you can run
as little as 25% antifreeze. thats all i run and we had some 20' days
last winter-no probs on cars i dont even drive normally.
on an AD truck you are looking at close to 2 gallons in radiator if you
drain it and dont drain block. so i would run 1.5 gallons of distilled
water and .5 gallon antifreeze(put antifreeze and water wetter in
first)
i would ALSO use a sealed overflow tank.
on stock systems i would run a 7# cap assuming system was in good
condition. #4 cap if average. if you have pinhole leaks run any cap and
only tighten to first click-leaving a non-pressure system. with an
overflow tank you wont permanantly lose fluid.
on a very good system i would run a 10-14# cap. thats new radiator,
well tested heater core, new or very good freeze plugs, new/good
hoses... etc.
i forget the numbers but every pound of pressure raises boiling point
12?10?5? degrees.
thermostat.
i would run a 180' stat. period. all your new cars-they are running
closer to or over 200' theres a reason.
the higher the temp-the longer the water stays in the rad getting cool.
the longer the water has to stay cool, the less likly to spiral heat
upward out of control.
in my 55TF 7,000# camper i started out with factory 235. i was speed
limited on flats by RPM induced heat to around 50-55. uphills in
mountains it was closer to 25-30.
i made a shroud and did 25/75 and picked up about 10mph on the bottom
side and 5mph on top speed.
i swapped to worn/used SBC, kept stock 1?2? row 6 cyl rad. added 14#
cap, new hoses, different shroud to fit SBC fan, 25/75, added water
wetter, kragen brand metal flex fan.
i can run 65+ on the flats, 45-50 in the steep mountains. the only
thing in the mountains thats is slowing me down is the stock 4spd. i
need a 3.5 gear, 3rd too low, 4th too high.
any ques-email me or Nate knows a lot too.
good luck,
mark
nor-cal.
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