well, i say anything
fel-pro
mr gasket
sealed power
federal mogul
etc... anything that youve seen on a race car is gonna be fine. keep in
mind however that most of those major companies outsource and its still
made in mexico or china... they do quality control so.... good luck.
if you are after higher power and get a machinist who knows what they
are doing-hyperutectic pistons are lighter(easier to rev), expand
less(tighter tolerances=less blow-by), and hold thier shape better than
cast pistons and dont expand even half as much as a forged piston.
little more costly than cast but... ya get whatcha pay fer...
get your whole assembly BALANCED, line-bored, and torque plate bored
for best trueness and smoothest running.
and smooth running with light compnents= higher revs faster with more
power sent to the driveshaft instead of expended in friction heat.
and BTW-no matter what you read or hear-FULL SYNTHETIC oil is superior
to anything else.
dont buy castrol-long story, but mobil 1 is my fav.
and you can use it even for the 'break-in' period no matter what the
mechanic says.
want proof-email me. or google full synthetic and be prepared to wade
thruogh hours of tech articles.
good luck!
and if the machinist poo-poohs the idea of line boring or doesnt
have(or wont get) the required torque plate for machining-kindly take
your block elsewhere.
mark
----------------
Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2006 01:44:23 -0700
From: Jonas Thaler <jonasthaler@jonasthaler.com>
Subject: [oletrucks] Late night pondering...
I should be in bed but I am up worrying about my truck...
I have a 59 Chevrolet 3100 Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton, and I realize
that is redundant... I bought it with a previously rebuilt 235. It
write your congressman.
http://www.congress.org
get rid of those annoying phone calls;
http://www.fcc.gov/cgb/consumerfacts/tcpa.html
https://www.donotcall.gov/default.aspx
http://customclassics.org
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