The original motor is front mounted and bolts to a bellhousing that bolts to
a crossmember. The 350 will not bolt to your bellhousing, and far as I
know, there is no bellhousing that will bolt to your crossmember and a 350.
If you use a '54-'55 1st crossmember you can use a '63 to '67 or so
bellhousing to address that problem. I don't know if 1/2-ton and 3/4-ton
crossmembers are the same or not. I do know that 1-1/2 ton and larger
trucks have a different crossmember.
Taking that approach you can retain your original rear motor mount location
(the bellhousing) but will need the front crossmember. You are also going
to have trouble with the exhaust and steering wanting to occupy the same
space. '56 Chevy exhaust manifolds, and 305 Chevy exhaust manifolds are
said to resolve that problem, but I've never seen one or tried it myself.
I have seen trucks where the steering box was moved out from the frame far
enough to create clearance. Doing so also creates potential problems.
A 3/4-ton is different than a 1/2-ton is that there is a short driveshaft
between a torque tube and the rear axle. You can change the rear gears by
swapping the differential from a later Chevy/GMC pickup up through about
'72.
If you were not pulling a trailer I'd say your original radiator if in good
condition should be fine. Pulling a trailer I'm not as confident.
Those are my quick thoughts about regarding how to approach this. Not
everyone is going to feel this is a good idea, so don't be surprised if some
object.
I've not done this kind of swap, but only relate what I've learned from
others. The devil will be in the details!
Try the forum at www.StoveBolt.com for more info.
Steve@OldSub.com
www.OldSub.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Gittleson [mailto:overtime@warwick.net]
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2005 2:30 PM
To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: [oletrucks] Engine swap
Hello all,
I am new to this group so please bear with me.
I recently bought a "52 3/4 ton" which really turns out to be most likely a
'50 3/4 ton. It's ok. I like the truck.
Anyhow, my plan is to swap in a 350 and use it as a real truck. It would get
2
or 3000 miles per year but some of it would be pulling a 2-horse trailer.
Feel
free to tell me I'm crazy.
I want to change as little as possible, with nothing noticeable without
opening the hood. No lowered front end. No car front end. No automatic. No
tilt. No fancy dash. I will change to 12 volt and convert to electric
wipers.
Maybe it will need a beefed-up radiator. I suppose I will have to change the
rear end ratio. Carter's has a 4.10 for the 3/4 ton. I would need the front
motor mount, which I would get from Chevy Duty. They said I would need the
rear as well but I don't see why, since I'm not going to automatic (no
way!).
It all seems almost too easy. I read that I can use the same starter,
flywheel, clutch etc. I know, the starter is 6 volt but I don't think that
will matter. It just makes them spin faster. I have another 52 with 235, 12
volt and a 6 volt starter. Same in my Ford 9N tractor. No problem.
Do any of you have thoughts (besides "we shoot anyone who modifies Chevy
trucks.") or suggestions? Am I missing something important? Is there a
website
that might help?
Thanks
Gary
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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