I can send you photos of GMC and Chevy Split manifolds and headers we have
used if you email me and want to see what we have done.
Dave Shier
daveshier@hotmail.com
Trinidad, Colorado
Lots of trucks (at least 15)
>From: soccersweetiez@att.net
>Reply-To: soccersweetiez@att.net
>To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
>Subject: [oletrucks] stovebolt performance
>Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2003 00:16:56 +0000
>
>I am completly rebuilding my chevy 235 and wanted to hop it up . I wanted
>to
>know about what cam to get and where also about the lifters if i should get
>hydrolic or mechanical . Also I heard about a guy who made his own dual
>exhaust header and i wanted to know if anyone knew how to do it. Last if
>anyone knew about porting the head.
> >
> > oletrucks-digest Sunday, November 16 2003 Volume 02 : Number
>2106
> >
> >
> >
> > [oletrucks] Thread dimensions ["Mark Self"
><mark.self@verizon.net>]
> > Re: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions
>[Ribbit2@aol.com]
> > Re: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions
>[Ribbit2@aol.com]
> > Re: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions ["Steve Hanberg"
><steve@OldSub.com>]
> > Re: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions [Bob Fischer
><r.fischerjr@worldnet.att.]
> > Re: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions ["K. M. Lehmann"
><klehmann@bentonrea.co]
> > [oletrucks] Truck Shop ["Dennis Larson"
><DLLarson1@frontiernet.net>]
> > [oletrucks] Re: Stock steering column mods for power steering upgrade
>["C]
> > RE: [oletrucks] Re: Stock steering column mods for power steering
>upgrade
> > ["Dave" <kruc@adelphia.ne]
> > [oletrucks] OxyAcetylene set up ["Scott Tyson"
><scott-tyson@worldnet.att.]
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 22:43:55 -0800
> > From: "Mark Self" <mark.self@verizon.net>
> > Subject: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions
> >
> > I'm trying to figure what the thread pitch is on my '55 1st 3100 1/2 ton
> > emergency brake clevis. There is a clevis connected to the bell cranks
>on
> > both ends of the emergency brake cross shaft. One is just outboard of
>the
> > frame just behind the cab and the other is on the passenger side. I
>have both
> > clevis's, but the parts that connect it to the emergency cables (and the
> > cables themselves) that go to the brake drums are long gone. It appears
>that
> > there is rust and dirt in the threads. They are 5/16" but I tried both
>24 and
> > 16 pitch. The 24 pitch seemed to work best, but only threaded in 4 or 5
> > threads, before it stopped. Before I get the thread chaser out could
>someone
> > tell me the correct pitch, so i don't mess these clevis's up.
> >
> > Thanks, in advance.
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 06:26:32 EST
> > From: Ribbit2@aol.com
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions
> >
> > Don't know if this will help or not but 5-16th standard threads are 24
>and 18
> > not 16. There is no help in the Factory assembly manual only part
>numbers.
> > Good luck.
> > Jim H
> > 57-3100-SB
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 10:22:57 EST
> > From: Ribbit2@aol.com
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions
> >
> > Went outside with a thread gauge that was in my tap and die set and
>measured
> > my 57 clevis rod and it is 24 tpi. Hope this is the same as yours. this
>is
> > standard national fine threads. Good luck.
> > Jim H
> > 57-3100-SB
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 08:03:42 -0800
> > From: "Steve Hanberg" <steve@OldSub.com>
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions
> >
> > I'd stop by the hardware store and buy one of each pitch 5/16ths bolt
>they
> > had, and then see which would match up the best.
> >
> > - ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Mark Self" <mark.self@verizon.net>
> > To: "Oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 10:43 PM
> > Subject: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions
> >
> >
> > I'm trying to figure what the thread pitch is on my '55 1st 3100 1/2 ton
> > emergency brake clevis. There is a clevis connected to the bell cranks
>on
> > both ends of the emergency brake cross shaft. One is just outboard of
>the
> > frame just behind the cab and the other is on the passenger side. I
>have
> > both
> > clevis's, but the parts that connect it to the emergency cables (and the
> > cables themselves) that go to the brake drums are long gone. It appears
> > that
> > there is rust and dirt in the threads. They are 5/16" but I tried both
>24
> > and
> > 16 pitch. The 24 pitch seemed to work best, but only threaded in 4 or 5
> > threads, before it stopped. Before I get the thread chaser out could
> > someone
> > tell me the correct pitch, so i don't mess these clevis's up.
> >
> > Thanks, in advance.
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 12:17:31 -0800
> > From: Bob Fischer <r.fischerjr@worldnet.att.net>
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions
> >
> > Hi Mark,
> > I know I said this B4 but you have to be close to get'n that baby goin.
> >
> > Checked the threads on the original 49 rear, still set'n on the back of
>the 53
> > COE, and they're 5/16-24.
> >
> > I don't recall what rear you're put'n in that truck but you may want to
>do as I
> > did and just loop the cables
> > from the later rear around the clevis, where the threaded portion on the
>end of
> > the cable would go and clamp it down
> > with hardware store garage door hardware.
> > Adjust the front portion off the pedal to the horizontal bar first of
>course, so
> > you'll have max adjustment
> > later. I've been using this arrangement for over two years and I haven't
>had to
> > adjust it yet, nor have I had any problems with
> > the shade tree engineering :)
> > Here are a couple shots of the rt side:
> > <http://home.att.net/~bobspl/pix/49brake.jpg>
> > <http://home.att.net/~bobspl/pix/Embrake.jpg>
> >
> >
> > >I'm trying to figure what the thread pitch is on my '55 1st 3100 1/2
>ton
> > >emergency brake clevis. There is a clevis connected to the bell cranks
>on
> > >both ends of the emergency brake cross shaft. One is just outboard of
>the
> > >frame just behind the cab and the other is on the passenger side. I
>have both
> > >clevis's, but the parts that connect it to the emergency cables (and
>the
> > >cables themselves) that go to the brake drums are long gone. It
>appears that
> > >there is rust and dirt in the threads. They are 5/16" but I tried both
>24 and
> > >16 pitch. The 24 pitch seemed to work best, but only threaded in 4 or
>5
> > >threads, before it stopped. Before I get the thread chaser out could
>someone
> > >tell me the correct pitch, so i don't mess these clevis's up.
> > >
> > >Thanks, in advance.
> > >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > "Nothin lasts forever except old Fords and a natural stone" - Willie
>Nelson
> >
> > http://Bobsplayce.home.att.net e-mail -->r.fischerjr@att.net
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 16:27:50 -0800
> > From: "K. M. Lehmann" <klehmann@bentonrea.com>
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions
> >
> > Good Idea Bob, as most people only use parking brake for vehicle
>inspection.
> > Lee
> > - ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bob Fischer" <r.fischerjr@worldnet.att.net>
> > To: "Mark Self" <mark.self@verizon.net>; "Oletrucks"
> > <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, November 14, 2003 12:17 PM
> > Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions
> >
> >
> > > Hi Mark,
> > > I know I said this B4 but you have to be close to get'n that baby
>goin.
> > >
> > > Checked the threads on the original 49 rear, still set'n on the back
>of
> > the 53 COE, and they're 5/16-24.
> > >
> > > I don't recall what rear you're put'n in that truck but you may want
>to do
> > as I did and just loop the cables
> > > from the later rear around the clevis, where the threaded portion on
>the
> > end of the cable would go and clamp it down
> > > with hardware store garage door hardware.
> > > Adjust the front portion off the pedal to the horizontal bar first of
> > course, so you'll have max adjustment
> > > later. I've been using this arrangement for over two years and I
>haven't
> > had to adjust it yet, nor have I had any problems with
> > > the shade tree engineering :)
> > > Here are a couple shots of the rt side:
> > > <http://home.att.net/~bobspl/pix/49brake.jpg>
> > <http://home.att.net/~bobspl/pix/Embrake.jpg>
> > >
> > >
> > > >I'm trying to figure what the thread pitch is on my '55 1st 3100 1/2
>ton
> > > >emergency brake clevis. There is a clevis connected to the bell
>cranks
> > on
> > > >both ends of the emergency brake cross shaft. One is just outboard
>of
> > the
> > > >frame just behind the cab and the other is on the passenger side. I
>have
> > both
> > > >clevis's, but the parts that connect it to the emergency cables (and
>the
> > > >cables themselves) that go to the brake drums are long gone. It
>appears
> > that
> > > >there is rust and dirt in the threads. They are 5/16" but I tried
>both
> > 24 and
> > > >16 pitch. The 24 pitch seemed to work best, but only threaded in 4
>or 5
> > > >threads, before it stopped. Before I get the thread chaser out could
> > someone
> > > >tell me the correct pitch, so i don't mess these clevis's up.
> > > >
> > > >Thanks, in advance.
> > > >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
>1959
> > >
> > > "Nothin lasts forever except old Fords and a natural stone" - Willie
> > Nelson
> > >
> > > http://Bobsplayce.home.att.net e-mail -->r.fischerjr@att.net
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
>1959
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 16:40:04 -0800
> > From: "Dennis Larson" <DLLarson1@frontiernet.net>
> > Subject: [oletrucks] Truck Shop
> >
> > I happen to have a chrome grill I bought for my 53 from them in Reno
>along
> > with some running lights and headlight bezels. No complaints. I did
>not have
> > anything shipped, it was cash and carry on my part. All their stuff
>looked
> > good.
> >
> > Dennis Larson
> > 53 - 5 window
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 21:02:03 -0600
> > From: "Carl & Becky Ham" <the_hams@hotmail.com>
> > Subject: [oletrucks] Re: Stock steering column mods for power steering
>upgrade
> >
> > Joe:
> > Per your original message below, did you look at my technical article on
>the
> > www.chevytrucks.org website? I used a late-model Pontiac Gran Prix
>steering
> > column, but had to cut it several times to get the correct length.
> >
> > With a stock column, you'll have to cut the outer casing first, then the
> > actual rod inside that runs to the steering gearbox. Make sure your
>inner
> > rod sticks out past the casing at least 3-4 inches. A visit to a
>junkyard
> > could get you the "bearing/bushing" off the end of a late model steering
> > column (mine was originally held on with a wire clip but I just drilled
>a
> > couple of holes in the casing to attach it). You won't need a bearing
>to
> > support the inner rod, some kind of bushing to keep it centered in the
> > casing would do just fine (mine on the late model column was plastic
>believe
> > it or not)!
> >
> > I'd suggest cutting the casing within 4 inches of where it comes through
>the
> > floor of the cab. Reason is, if you mount the new steering gear box on
>the
> > outside of the frame rail (as I did), you'll need as much room possible
>to
> > fit in your two universal joints and have enough straight length between
> > them so the universal joints won't bind when you turn the steering wheel
> > (U-joint manuf. says no more than 15 degree angle at either u-joint or
>they
> > will tend to hang-up). I had to slightly notch my inner fender well at
>the
> > bottom (close to where it meets the frame), for the new rod to through.
> >
> > I bought u-joints that matched the splines on the new steering gear box
>at
> > one end, and the diameter of the steering column inner rod for the
>other.
> > Opposite ends of each u-joint were 3/4 inch diameter and I used a piece
>of
> > 3/4 inch aluminum round stock to connect the u-joints. To finish the
> > install, I drilled holes through both ends of each u-joint and put
>either
> > 1/4 or 5/16 inch bolts through the u-joints and rods (didn't do this at
>new
> > steering gear box end with the splines). I didn't trust using an allen
> > screw and jam nut (provided with the u-joints) because I thought with
>time
> > they may loosen up with time.
> >
> > Hope this helps, if you need more details write me back and I'll try to
> > help. Good Luck!
> >
> > Carl Ham
> > '56 Chevy TF Stepside
> > Pontiac, IL
> >
> > >From: "Joe Parker" <Joe_Parker357@msn.com>
> > >To: <the_hams@hotmail.com>
> > >Subject: Carl, I need some imformation on changing my 55 2nd over to
> > >powersteering like you did but I want to keep my stock steering column,
>and
> > >i can not find that imformation any where, any help you could give me
>would
> > >be deeply appreciated.
> > >Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 09:34:05 -0500
> > >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > MSN Shopping upgraded for the holidays! Snappier product search...
> > http://shopping.msn.com
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 22:14:20 -0700
> > From: "Dave" <kruc@adelphia.net>
> > Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Re: Stock steering column mods for power
>steering
> > upgrade
> >
> > Don't forget to mock up the steering linkage with cheap wooden dowels.
>It's
> > easier than making multiple cuts in a $60 hardened steel splined rod, or
> > cutting it too short and needing to buy a replacement.
> > Dave '57 3100
> >
> > - -----Original Message-----
> > I bought u-joints that matched the splines on the new steering gear box
>at
> > one end, and the diameter of the steering column inner rod for the
>other.
> > Opposite ends of each u-joint were 3/4 inch diameter and I used a piece
>of
> > 3/4 inch aluminum round stock to connect the u-joints. To finish the
> > install, I drilled holes through both ends of each u-joint and put
>either
> > 1/4 or 5/16 inch bolts through the u-joints and rods (didn't do this at
>new
> > steering gear box end with the splines). I didn't trust using an allen
> > screw and jam nut (provided with the u-joints) because I thought with
>time
> > they may loosen up with time.
> >
> > Hope this helps, if you need more details write me back and I'll try to
> > help. Good Luck!
> >
> > Carl Ham
> > '56 Chevy TF Stepside
> > Pontiac, IL
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 10:24:58 -0500
> > From: "Scott Tyson" <scott-tyson@worldnet.att.net>
> > Subject: [oletrucks] OxyAcetylene set up
> >
> > I got a question and I hope someone here knows. Yesterday I was at an
>auction.
> > A lot of tools and equipment. One of the items in the shop was a
>Oxyacetylene
> > cutting torch set up. The tanks were in real good shape and date stamped
>4/02.
> > The auctioneer said there was no way he would auction them off because
>they
> > didn't have any tags. He could loose his auctioneer's license. Could
>someone
> > explain? He seemed to be most concerned about the oxygen tank. Is it
>related
> > to proof of ownership? Can you get used tanks refilled? Should I avoid
>used
> > tanks or what tags do they need to make them legal. There's a guy on
>that
> > online (E-&%#) auction site selling tanks claiming that as long as the
>receipt
> > has the tank number you can get them filled. Who's right?
> >
> > It would be nice to try my hand at gas welding and a smoke torch always
>comes
> > in handy.
> >
> > Any information would be appreciated.
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > End of oletrucks-digest V2 #2106
> > ********************************
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
_________________________________________________________________
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