I am completly rebuilding my chevy 235 and wanted to hop it up . I wanted to
know about what cam to get and where also about the lifters if i should get
hydrolic or mechanical . Also I heard about a guy who made his own dual
exhaust header and i wanted to know if anyone knew how to do it. Last if
anyone knew about porting the head.
>
> oletrucks-digest Sunday, November 16 2003 Volume 02 : Number 2106
>
>
>
> [oletrucks] Thread dimensions ["Mark Self" <mark.self@verizon.net>]
> Re: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions [Ribbit2@aol.com]
> Re: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions [Ribbit2@aol.com]
> Re: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions ["Steve Hanberg" <steve@OldSub.com>]
> Re: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions [Bob Fischer <r.fischerjr@worldnet.att.]
> Re: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions ["K. M. Lehmann" <klehmann@bentonrea.co]
> [oletrucks] Truck Shop ["Dennis Larson" <DLLarson1@frontiernet.net>]
> [oletrucks] Re: Stock steering column mods for power steering upgrade ["C]
> RE: [oletrucks] Re: Stock steering column mods for power steering upgrade
> ["Dave" <kruc@adelphia.ne]
> [oletrucks] OxyAcetylene set up ["Scott Tyson" <scott-tyson@worldnet.att.]
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2003 22:43:55 -0800
> From: "Mark Self" <mark.self@verizon.net>
> Subject: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions
>
> I'm trying to figure what the thread pitch is on my '55 1st 3100 1/2 ton
> emergency brake clevis. There is a clevis connected to the bell cranks on
> both ends of the emergency brake cross shaft. One is just outboard of the
> frame just behind the cab and the other is on the passenger side. I have both
> clevis's, but the parts that connect it to the emergency cables (and the
> cables themselves) that go to the brake drums are long gone. It appears that
> there is rust and dirt in the threads. They are 5/16" but I tried both 24 and
> 16 pitch. The 24 pitch seemed to work best, but only threaded in 4 or 5
> threads, before it stopped. Before I get the thread chaser out could someone
> tell me the correct pitch, so i don't mess these clevis's up.
>
> Thanks, in advance.
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 06:26:32 EST
> From: Ribbit2@aol.com
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions
>
> Don't know if this will help or not but 5-16th standard threads are 24 and 18
> not 16. There is no help in the Factory assembly manual only part numbers.
> Good luck.
> Jim H
> 57-3100-SB
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 10:22:57 EST
> From: Ribbit2@aol.com
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions
>
> Went outside with a thread gauge that was in my tap and die set and measured
> my 57 clevis rod and it is 24 tpi. Hope this is the same as yours. this is
> standard national fine threads. Good luck.
> Jim H
> 57-3100-SB
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 08:03:42 -0800
> From: "Steve Hanberg" <steve@OldSub.com>
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions
>
> I'd stop by the hardware store and buy one of each pitch 5/16ths bolt they
> had, and then see which would match up the best.
>
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Self" <mark.self@verizon.net>
> To: "Oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2003 10:43 PM
> Subject: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions
>
>
> I'm trying to figure what the thread pitch is on my '55 1st 3100 1/2 ton
> emergency brake clevis. There is a clevis connected to the bell cranks on
> both ends of the emergency brake cross shaft. One is just outboard of the
> frame just behind the cab and the other is on the passenger side. I have
> both
> clevis's, but the parts that connect it to the emergency cables (and the
> cables themselves) that go to the brake drums are long gone. It appears
> that
> there is rust and dirt in the threads. They are 5/16" but I tried both 24
> and
> 16 pitch. The 24 pitch seemed to work best, but only threaded in 4 or 5
> threads, before it stopped. Before I get the thread chaser out could
> someone
> tell me the correct pitch, so i don't mess these clevis's up.
>
> Thanks, in advance.
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 12:17:31 -0800
> From: Bob Fischer <r.fischerjr@worldnet.att.net>
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions
>
> Hi Mark,
> I know I said this B4 but you have to be close to get'n that baby goin.
>
> Checked the threads on the original 49 rear, still set'n on the back of the
>53
> COE, and they're 5/16-24.
>
> I don't recall what rear you're put'n in that truck but you may want to do as
>I
> did and just loop the cables
> from the later rear around the clevis, where the threaded portion on the end
>of
> the cable would go and clamp it down
> with hardware store garage door hardware.
> Adjust the front portion off the pedal to the horizontal bar first of course,
>so
> you'll have max adjustment
> later. I've been using this arrangement for over two years and I haven't had
>to
> adjust it yet, nor have I had any problems with
> the shade tree engineering :)
> Here are a couple shots of the rt side:
> <http://home.att.net/~bobspl/pix/49brake.jpg>
> <http://home.att.net/~bobspl/pix/Embrake.jpg>
>
>
> >I'm trying to figure what the thread pitch is on my '55 1st 3100 1/2 ton
> >emergency brake clevis. There is a clevis connected to the bell cranks on
> >both ends of the emergency brake cross shaft. One is just outboard of the
> >frame just behind the cab and the other is on the passenger side. I have
>both
> >clevis's, but the parts that connect it to the emergency cables (and the
> >cables themselves) that go to the brake drums are long gone. It appears that
> >there is rust and dirt in the threads. They are 5/16" but I tried both 24
>and
> >16 pitch. The 24 pitch seemed to work best, but only threaded in 4 or 5
> >threads, before it stopped. Before I get the thread chaser out could someone
> >tell me the correct pitch, so i don't mess these clevis's up.
> >
> >Thanks, in advance.
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> "Nothin lasts forever except old Fords and a natural stone" - Willie Nelson
>
> http://Bobsplayce.home.att.net e-mail -->r.fischerjr@att.net
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 16:27:50 -0800
> From: "K. M. Lehmann" <klehmann@bentonrea.com>
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions
>
> Good Idea Bob, as most people only use parking brake for vehicle inspection.
> Lee
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Fischer" <r.fischerjr@worldnet.att.net>
> To: "Mark Self" <mark.self@verizon.net>; "Oletrucks"
> <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, November 14, 2003 12:17 PM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Thread dimensions
>
>
> > Hi Mark,
> > I know I said this B4 but you have to be close to get'n that baby goin.
> >
> > Checked the threads on the original 49 rear, still set'n on the back of
> the 53 COE, and they're 5/16-24.
> >
> > I don't recall what rear you're put'n in that truck but you may want to do
> as I did and just loop the cables
> > from the later rear around the clevis, where the threaded portion on the
> end of the cable would go and clamp it down
> > with hardware store garage door hardware.
> > Adjust the front portion off the pedal to the horizontal bar first of
> course, so you'll have max adjustment
> > later. I've been using this arrangement for over two years and I haven't
> had to adjust it yet, nor have I had any problems with
> > the shade tree engineering :)
> > Here are a couple shots of the rt side:
> > <http://home.att.net/~bobspl/pix/49brake.jpg>
> <http://home.att.net/~bobspl/pix/Embrake.jpg>
> >
> >
> > >I'm trying to figure what the thread pitch is on my '55 1st 3100 1/2 ton
> > >emergency brake clevis. There is a clevis connected to the bell cranks
> on
> > >both ends of the emergency brake cross shaft. One is just outboard of
> the
> > >frame just behind the cab and the other is on the passenger side. I have
> both
> > >clevis's, but the parts that connect it to the emergency cables (and the
> > >cables themselves) that go to the brake drums are long gone. It appears
> that
> > >there is rust and dirt in the threads. They are 5/16" but I tried both
> 24 and
> > >16 pitch. The 24 pitch seemed to work best, but only threaded in 4 or 5
> > >threads, before it stopped. Before I get the thread chaser out could
> someone
> > >tell me the correct pitch, so i don't mess these clevis's up.
> > >
> > >Thanks, in advance.
> > >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > "Nothin lasts forever except old Fords and a natural stone" - Willie
> Nelson
> >
> > http://Bobsplayce.home.att.net e-mail -->r.fischerjr@att.net
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 16:40:04 -0800
> From: "Dennis Larson" <DLLarson1@frontiernet.net>
> Subject: [oletrucks] Truck Shop
>
> I happen to have a chrome grill I bought for my 53 from them in Reno along
> with some running lights and headlight bezels. No complaints. I did not have
> anything shipped, it was cash and carry on my part. All their stuff looked
> good.
>
> Dennis Larson
> 53 - 5 window
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 21:02:03 -0600
> From: "Carl & Becky Ham" <the_hams@hotmail.com>
> Subject: [oletrucks] Re: Stock steering column mods for power steering upgrade
>
> Joe:
> Per your original message below, did you look at my technical article on the
> www.chevytrucks.org website? I used a late-model Pontiac Gran Prix steering
> column, but had to cut it several times to get the correct length.
>
> With a stock column, you'll have to cut the outer casing first, then the
> actual rod inside that runs to the steering gearbox. Make sure your inner
> rod sticks out past the casing at least 3-4 inches. A visit to a junkyard
> could get you the "bearing/bushing" off the end of a late model steering
> column (mine was originally held on with a wire clip but I just drilled a
> couple of holes in the casing to attach it). You won't need a bearing to
> support the inner rod, some kind of bushing to keep it centered in the
> casing would do just fine (mine on the late model column was plastic believe
> it or not)!
>
> I'd suggest cutting the casing within 4 inches of where it comes through the
> floor of the cab. Reason is, if you mount the new steering gear box on the
> outside of the frame rail (as I did), you'll need as much room possible to
> fit in your two universal joints and have enough straight length between
> them so the universal joints won't bind when you turn the steering wheel
> (U-joint manuf. says no more than 15 degree angle at either u-joint or they
> will tend to hang-up). I had to slightly notch my inner fender well at the
> bottom (close to where it meets the frame), for the new rod to through.
>
> I bought u-joints that matched the splines on the new steering gear box at
> one end, and the diameter of the steering column inner rod for the other.
> Opposite ends of each u-joint were 3/4 inch diameter and I used a piece of
> 3/4 inch aluminum round stock to connect the u-joints. To finish the
> install, I drilled holes through both ends of each u-joint and put either
> 1/4 or 5/16 inch bolts through the u-joints and rods (didn't do this at new
> steering gear box end with the splines). I didn't trust using an allen
> screw and jam nut (provided with the u-joints) because I thought with time
> they may loosen up with time.
>
> Hope this helps, if you need more details write me back and I'll try to
> help. Good Luck!
>
> Carl Ham
> '56 Chevy TF Stepside
> Pontiac, IL
>
> >From: "Joe Parker" <Joe_Parker357@msn.com>
> >To: <the_hams@hotmail.com>
> >Subject: Carl, I need some imformation on changing my 55 2nd over to
> >powersteering like you did but I want to keep my stock steering column, and
> >i can not find that imformation any where, any help you could give me would
> >be deeply appreciated.
> >Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 09:34:05 -0500
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> MSN Shopping upgraded for the holidays! Snappier product search...
> http://shopping.msn.com
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2003 22:14:20 -0700
> From: "Dave" <kruc@adelphia.net>
> Subject: RE: [oletrucks] Re: Stock steering column mods for power steering
> upgrade
>
> Don't forget to mock up the steering linkage with cheap wooden dowels. It's
> easier than making multiple cuts in a $60 hardened steel splined rod, or
> cutting it too short and needing to buy a replacement.
> Dave '57 3100
>
> - -----Original Message-----
> I bought u-joints that matched the splines on the new steering gear box at
> one end, and the diameter of the steering column inner rod for the other.
> Opposite ends of each u-joint were 3/4 inch diameter and I used a piece of
> 3/4 inch aluminum round stock to connect the u-joints. To finish the
> install, I drilled holes through both ends of each u-joint and put either
> 1/4 or 5/16 inch bolts through the u-joints and rods (didn't do this at new
> steering gear box end with the splines). I didn't trust using an allen
> screw and jam nut (provided with the u-joints) because I thought with time
> they may loosen up with time.
>
> Hope this helps, if you need more details write me back and I'll try to
> help. Good Luck!
>
> Carl Ham
> '56 Chevy TF Stepside
> Pontiac, IL
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 10:24:58 -0500
> From: "Scott Tyson" <scott-tyson@worldnet.att.net>
> Subject: [oletrucks] OxyAcetylene set up
>
> I got a question and I hope someone here knows. Yesterday I was at an auction.
> A lot of tools and equipment. One of the items in the shop was a Oxyacetylene
> cutting torch set up. The tanks were in real good shape and date stamped 4/02.
> The auctioneer said there was no way he would auction them off because they
> didn't have any tags. He could loose his auctioneer's license. Could someone
> explain? He seemed to be most concerned about the oxygen tank. Is it related
> to proof of ownership? Can you get used tanks refilled? Should I avoid used
> tanks or what tags do they need to make them legal. There's a guy on that
> online (E-&%#) auction site selling tanks claiming that as long as the receipt
> has the tank number you can get them filled. Who's right?
>
> It would be nice to try my hand at gas welding and a smoke torch always comes
> in handy.
>
> Any information would be appreciated.
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of oletrucks-digest V2 #2106
> ********************************
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|
