Do not open the paint can when using POR-15. It will destroy the can seal
surface and eventually ruin your paint. What you need to do is poke two
holes in the can and seal them with sheet metal screws after pouring some
of your paint out into a plastic cup. This process works really well. You
do have to roll the can to mix the paint too. Do not shake POR-15, it
will aerate the paint and cause problems when you apply it. After pouring
out your paint be sure to pit the screws in the can fairly quickly.
POR-15 reacts with the moisture in the air and sealing the can will help
minimize this reaction. After putting the screws back in the can, be sure
to rotate the can again to coat the screws with the paint. This coating
will seal the rest of the paint from further outside moisture. Really
this process works like a champ. This was how a POR-15 retailer told me
how to take care of my paint and he was dead on. This was my second
purchase and I still have good paint in the can after three years. The
first one did not last even a tear for me due to the poor seal after
removing the lid. Rick W.
On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 20:06:16 +0000 "K Ohlgren" <kjohlgren@hotmail.com>
writes:
> Harry
> POR-15 doesn't store very well. once you open the can it has limited
> life.
> you can extend this by putting a layer of plastic wrap over the can
> before
> putting the lid on. A 4 oz. can covers 12 sq ft. they sell 6 packs
> of 4 oz
> cans on their website. this way you don't have to waste a lot for
> small
> jobs. it's not the most economical way to buy POR-15, but it
> minimizes
> waste. A quart covers 50 sq ft, that would be the bottom of the cab
> & most
> of the frame. If you are doing it in steps buy the six packs.
> As for removing under coating, dirt & rust. One of the most
> versitile tools
> for frame & body prep is a right angle head die grinder. This air
> tool
> chucks up those 1/4 inch shank tools. I use the arbor & 2 inch
> sanding pad a
> lot. It's perfect for removing rust scale, rust hard baked on
> grease/dirt
> and paint. The pads are available in 24 & 36 grit for rust removal,
> 48 & 60
> grit works good for polishing metal & welds, 80, 100 & 120 are good
> for
> shaping fiberglass & body filler. Grits are available 24 thru 400
> and you
> can get scotch brite pads too. The head size allows you to get close
> in
> corners & edges and the right angle design allows you the control. I
> bought
> a Ingersol Rand for $70, no name tools probably $25. You get what
> you pay
> for.
> Kurt
> 58 3100
>
>
>
> >From: "Spencer" <wits_end@worldnet.att.net>
> >Reply-To: "Spencer" <wits_end@worldnet.att.net>
> >To: "oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: [oletrucks] Bottom of cab
> >Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 17:44:32 -0700
> >
> >Howdy, All. I've got the cab of my '55 1st Series tipped up on its
> back
> >and
> >have spent the past few evenings scraping and cleaning. I've got
> three
> >questions.
> >
> >1. I'm planning on using POR 15 for the bottom of the cab and all
> of the
> >chassis. I don't know if I'll need a quart or a five gallon
> bucket. Any
> >of
> >you paint guys know about how much I'll need to buy?
> >
> >2. there is a hole in the center of the cab floor directly under
> where
> >the
> >seat would go. It's about an inch in diameter with a good sized
> notch on
> >either side. Anyone know what it is for?
> >
> >3. I've used scrapers and a grinder with wire wheels to get almost
> all of
> >the undercoating/mud removed, but some areas are real tough. Any
> tricks?
> >If I don't get every speck of the undercoating removed will it
> screw me up
> >if I try to paint over it?
> >
> >Thanks a bunch. From what I've been reading on the list there is a
> hell of
> >a lot of work going on out there. Bone stock or wild custom, it's
> all cool.
> >
> >Harry Spencer
> >Reno, NV
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
> 1959
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
> 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|