Harry
POR-15 doesn't store very well. once you open the can it has limited life.
you can extend this by putting a layer of plastic wrap over the can before
putting the lid on. A 4 oz. can covers 12 sq ft. they sell 6 packs of 4 oz
cans on their website. this way you don't have to waste a lot for small
jobs. it's not the most economical way to buy POR-15, but it minimizes
waste. A quart covers 50 sq ft, that would be the bottom of the cab & most
of the frame. If you are doing it in steps buy the six packs.
As for removing under coating, dirt & rust. One of the most versitile tools
for frame & body prep is a right angle head die grinder. This air tool
chucks up those 1/4 inch shank tools. I use the arbor & 2 inch sanding pad a
lot. It's perfect for removing rust scale, rust hard baked on grease/dirt
and paint. The pads are available in 24 & 36 grit for rust removal, 48 & 60
grit works good for polishing metal & welds, 80, 100 & 120 are good for
shaping fiberglass & body filler. Grits are available 24 thru 400 and you
can get scotch brite pads too. The head size allows you to get close in
corners & edges and the right angle design allows you the control. I bought
a Ingersol Rand for $70, no name tools probably $25. You get what you pay
for.
Kurt
58 3100
>From: "Spencer" <wits_end@worldnet.att.net>
>Reply-To: "Spencer" <wits_end@worldnet.att.net>
>To: "oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
>Subject: [oletrucks] Bottom of cab
>Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2003 17:44:32 -0700
>
>Howdy, All. I've got the cab of my '55 1st Series tipped up on its back
>and
>have spent the past few evenings scraping and cleaning. I've got three
>questions.
>
>1. I'm planning on using POR 15 for the bottom of the cab and all of the
>chassis. I don't know if I'll need a quart or a five gallon bucket. Any
>of
>you paint guys know about how much I'll need to buy?
>
>2. there is a hole in the center of the cab floor directly under where
>the
>seat would go. It's about an inch in diameter with a good sized notch on
>either side. Anyone know what it is for?
>
>3. I've used scrapers and a grinder with wire wheels to get almost all of
>the undercoating/mud removed, but some areas are real tough. Any tricks?
>If I don't get every speck of the undercoating removed will it screw me up
>if I try to paint over it?
>
>Thanks a bunch. From what I've been reading on the list there is a hell of
>a lot of work going on out there. Bone stock or wild custom, it's all cool.
>
>Harry Spencer
>Reno, NV
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
_________________________________________________________________
Add photos to your messages with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*.
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|