On solid lifters they have the nut and screw, not sure what the hydraulic
had. Adjust when running at low speed like 5 or 600 rpm. Yes, it's a pain
and will wreck the feeler gauge pounding on it, so best to buy the
individual ones. You can also do them not running using a special
procedure. Check at www.inliners.org site or at www.stovebolt.com under tech
sections or even at www.oldchevytruck.com tech site for that procedure. It
involves find TDC on first cyl. and turning crank a certain # of degrees to
set next one or two cyl and son on. Not sure if it's for cold only and just
a start up for a rebuild or if you can set warm to specs. Hydraulics were
only in the car engines I think till late 50's. On a V-8 they just tork the
rocker nuts after eliminating the clatter on each valve, not sure if that
works with sixes or not! There's always the shop manual for procedure, do
you have one for your year?
G. L. Perry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Muise" <danam@spazzco.com>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2003 2:12 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] 235 Valve question
> Hi, sorry to post this question again but nobody responded and I need to
> know...
> I am told that to adjust hydraulic valves on a straight 6- 235 the engine
> must be running, one must hold the tappet adjuster locknut with a spanner
> while adjusting the tappet with a screw driver. This seems insanely
> difficult to perform on a running engine.
> Is there a special tool available that hold the locknut while adjusting
the
> tappet?
> I work on motorcycles and I have a similar tool that I use for
synchronizing
> carbs, it's a long screw driver inside a section of pipe with a socket on
> the end. Has anyone heard of such a tool for adjusting valves?
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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