Well, the old battery did say commerical/industrial on the cover so I guess
it was an 8 volt. I guess I better make sure I have a resistor for the fuel
guage if I havent already toasted it.
On most systems with a ballast resistor, there is a bypass circuit for
starting the car such that there is full power to the coil when the starter
is on. Do I need this feature or will it just be harder to start?
There was also a funny transformer under the dash with a 120volt outlet.
The PO must have run tools on a job site from this thing. The specs were
wierd though, it had a 14v input and 330 volt ouput . In a 6 volt car they
would have gotten about 140 volts out. Probably ok for a drill.
Bob Chansler
Tom3600@webtv.net
To: Bob
Chansler/Boulder/IBM@IBMUS
09/09/2002 12:26 cc:
oletrucks@autox.team.net
PM Subject: Re: [oletrucks]
trouble with voltage regulator
Bob ~
If you had a 4 cell battery it was more than likely an 8V battery. Your
charging system is also probably still 6 volt and that is causing the
clicking sounds and amp meter gyrations with the 12V battery. The
regulator is also probably 6V. This would also explain the missing
ignition ballast resistor. I can not explain the 12V head lights
though. Your generator should say if it is a 6V or a 12V on the metal
tag. You have a real mystery there. A lot of 235 engines were modified
with an outside oil line to feed more oil to the rocker arms.
Tom
Tom Poterack
Moline, IL.
'49 Chevy Pickup Retro Rod
Inliner #3511 V8's R not INLINE
http://community.webtv.net/TOMPOT/TOMS1949CHEVYPICKUP
----- Message from "Bob Chansler" <rchansle@us.ibm.com> on Mon, 9 Sep 2002
11:36:27 -0600 -----
To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: [oletrucks] trouble with
voltage regulator
I purchased a 51 burb a few weeks ago and have been slowly getting it
going. It came with a 58 235 engine. I had to jump start it whenver I
wanted to start it as the battery wouldnt hold a charge. When I finally put
a volt meter to the battery it measured 9 volts. The battery had 4 cells in
so I assumed it was a 12 volt battery with one dead cell ( I thought all 12
volt batteries had 6 cells.) . Up until then I thought it was a 6 volt car
still. I took off one of the headlights and it was a 12 volt. I'm still
trying to decide what is still 6 volt and what has been changed, it seems
nothing is ever marked (try to find anywhere on a battery that says 12
volts).
Anyway, I bought a new 12 volt battery and the thing fires right up and
runs good. Now for the questions:
When I turn on the key, the amp meter is centered. I can turn on the
headlights and see a small move toward discharge. But, after I start the
car it reads major discharge when idling. It's to the left of the first
mark on the guage. I can hear the regulator clicking and see the needle
bouncing up and down. If I rev the engine the clicking stops, but the
needle only rises a little, never getting even close to the center mark. I
measured the output from the generator and its about 11 volts at idle and
14 when reving. Could this be a 6 volt regulator, or it it just not
functioning correctly? It looks fairly new and it looks different that the
old 6 volt one I have from another truck. How can I tell if its a 12 volt
reg? I suppose I could have a major short somewhere, but that should show
up when I turn on the key without starting it.
Second question: There isnt any ballast resitor betweent the coil and
battery. Is this a problem? Should I add one? What happens if I drive it
without one?
Last question: I have an oil tube running around the back of the engine and
entering in the middle of the left wide. Isnt this indicative of hydraulic
lifters? It sure sounds different that my '56 235 engine.
Bob Chansler
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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