Lead-acid batteries are 2 volts per cell, so your old one is an 8 volt battery.
Yes there are (were) such things. I believe they were available in Ford
products in the late 40's-early 50's
and were also used in some tractors.
The 14 volts when revving should be enough to properly charge the 12 volt
battery you now have.
It is interesting that the discharge greatly increases while the engine is
running vs. just
the key on, but not running.
Almost all 12volt systems with points use a ballast resistor to decrease
voltage to the
coil/points once the engine has started. Having no ballast resistor will cause
premature burning of the points and possibly overheating of the coil. In the
short
term the engine may actually even run better because of the hotter spark.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Chansler [mailto:rchansle@us.ibm.com]
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2002 12:36 PM
To: oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: [oletrucks] trouble with voltage regulator
I purchased a 51 burb a few weeks ago and have been slowly getting it
going. It came with a 58 235 engine. I had to jump start it whenver I
wanted to start it as the battery wouldnt hold a charge. When I finally put
a volt meter to the battery it measured 9 volts. The battery had 4 cells in
so I assumed it was a 12 volt battery with one dead cell ( I thought all 12
volt batteries had 6 cells.) . Up until then I thought it was a 6 volt car
still. I took off one of the headlights and it was a 12 volt. I'm still
trying to decide what is still 6 volt and what has been changed, it seems
nothing is ever marked (try to find anywhere on a battery that says 12
volts).
Anyway, I bought a new 12 volt battery and the thing fires right up and
runs good. Now for the questions:
When I turn on the key, the amp meter is centered. I can turn on the
headlights and see a small move toward discharge. But, after I start the
car it reads major discharge when idling. It's to the left of the first
mark on the guage. I can hear the regulator clicking and see the needle
bouncing up and down. If I rev the engine the clicking stops, but the
needle only rises a little, never getting even close to the center mark. I
measured the output from the generator and its about 11 volts at idle and
14 when reving. Could this be a 6 volt regulator, or it it just not
functioning correctly? It looks fairly new and it looks different that the
old 6 volt one I have from another truck. How can I tell if its a 12 volt
reg? I suppose I could have a major short somewhere, but that should show
up when I turn on the key without starting it.
Second question: There isnt any ballast resitor betweent the coil and
battery. Is this a problem? Should I add one? What happens if I drive it
without one?
Last question: I have an oil tube running around the back of the engine and
entering in the middle of the left wide. Isnt this indicative of hydraulic
lifters? It sure sounds different that my '56 235 engine.
Bob Chansler
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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