Remember, Holly and Edelbrock both sell spreadbore replacements that
should bolt right in place of the QJet.
I've got one infact, used it for about 5 years, now it needs a rebuild,
but it was a good/powerful carb (mechanical secondaries!).
-alfie
On Thu, 7 Feb 2002, William Gray wrote:
> I'll add my piece on Q-Jets, about the leaky fuel bowl. Symptom of the
> problem is an empty fuel bowl after letting it sit a day or 2 without
> running; you have to crank the starter 10 or 15 seconds to refill the
> fuel bowl before it will start (unless you have an electric fuel pump).
> Problem is these carbs have holes, I forget how many, in the bottom of
> the fuel bowl section, I think they're core support holes to facilitate
> the casting process. Rochester presses soft plugs in to seal them, but
> they frequently don't seal or lose their seal over time. If they don't
> seal they allow the bowl to slowly drain into the intake manifold.
>
> I've read of several cures, been afraid to try most.
>
> One is to replace the plugs with the same type of plug (good luck
> finding those!) or a piece of soft lead shot just slightly bigger than
> the hole. I don't like this because of the abuse of the casting
> required to remove the old plug and press or drive the new one in.
>
> What I've had success with is using fuel-proof epoxy to seal around the
> edge of the plug. Make everything very clean and dry. A couple thin
> layers over all the seams that could be leaking, with a day or 2 cure
> time between, should do it. You can test your work prior to reassembly
> by (carefully; no spilling) filling the bowl with fuel and let it sit
> overnight over a clean white paper. Next day check the paper for drips
> and the bottom of the bowl casting for wetness. If all is dry you're
> done; if not, clean it all up, start over and do it better. You could
> use the same method up front to determine which plug is leaking.
> I've done this on 3 Q-Jets over the years. On two the cure worked
> completely, on the 3rd the bowl began its draining trick a few months
> later, but at an acceptably slow rate. I didn't keep any of these carbs
> in service for more than a couple years after rebuilding, so I don't
> know how it holds up longer term.
>
> Bill Gray
> william.gray@snet.net
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of J Forbes
> Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2002 4:17 PM
> To: Old Trucks List
> Subject: [oletrucks] Quadrajet--carb rebuilding
>
>
> Like he said, if you have the manual, and some quiet time, it's not bad.
> Finding some how-to articles might help, but then they leave out some
> steps!
>
> Instead of a bucket of carb cleaner, which is nasty, I suggest using a
> spray can or two. That's what I've been doing for the past 5 or 10
> years. The kind in the spray can evaporates, so it pollutes the
> atmosphere a bit, but it dissipates quickly, instead of hanging around
> as a gallon of toxic waste.
>
> Oh, yeah...the thing about how it goes quicker the second time...that's
> usually right after you put the rebuilt carb back on the engine and try
> to get it to run :) at least that's what happened to me when I did
> my first Carter 2bbl at age 13.
>
> Hint--be careful setting the float level, and getting the metering rods
> back in! and be sure to read how to take it apart BEFORE you destroy
> stuff.
>
> Jim F
> 59s in AZ
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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