Joe & Thomas,
Thanks for the information. Naturally, my alternator has both 1 and 2, AND
R and F. Does this mean that it is internal or external regulator?
I will be using the stock '58 gages, so I am assuming that the Amp meter is
actually an Amp meter. You have indicated where #1 wire goes, what about #2
wire? Thomas' email appears to indicated that it should go to the battery
or the battery terminal on the starter. The local wrecker's suggestion was
just to hook the two together?
Thanks
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: "joe" <chevy1@jps.net>
To: "Randall J. Krebs" <lawgod@offshore-tax.com>
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 2:40 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Alternator Wiring & Gibbon
> O.K Randall if the 2 wire is on the top side of the alternator labeled #1
> and #2 it's an internal regulator alternator. If you have labels R and F
> next to the terminals then it's an external regulator alternator.
>
> The wire can be ran a number of ways. I have a voltmeter in my truck so I
> just ran the 10 ga. battery wire on the back of the alternator right back
to
> the battery. If you have the amp meter on the gauge panel and want it to
> register then you'll have to take the Bat wire from the back of the
> alternator and run it into one terminal on the amp gauge and then out the
> other terminal and down to the key switch. The key switch has a main Bat
> terminal that comes up from the battery so the current will make it's way
to
> the battery to recharge it. I always wire in a fusible link on the 10 ga.
> wire just close to the alternator in case their is a short. You can
> purchase fusible links at the local parts store and get it two wire sizes
> smaller than the wire your trying to protect. I then ran a wire from the
> key switch ignition terminal to the #1 terminal on the alternator. This
> wire energizes the alternator and causes it to start charging. Some guy's
> just run a short jumper wire from the bat terminal on the alternator to
the
> #1 terminal for the same purpose. I had a problem with the engine wanting
> to keep running because the alternator was feeding current and wouldn't
shut
> off so the way I wire the #1 terminal eliminated the dieseling effect.
>
> What I would actually suggest is that you head on over to a Boat shop and
> purchase a Self Energizing Voltage Regulator and you won't need the other
> wire to the #1 terminal. You only have to run the Bat wire. You just
> replace the voltage regulator with the Self Energizing regulator and then
> take a short piece of wire to jump current from the battery terminal on
the
> alternator up to the #1 terminal to activate it and your done!
>
> Joe
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randall J. Krebs <lawgod@offshore-tax.com>
> To: joe <chevy1@jps.net>
> Date: Monday, January 07, 2002 11:15 AM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Alternator Wiring & Gibbon
>
>
> >The Alternator has one connector at the top (side) with three wires
coming
> >out of it one larger than the other 2.
> >
> >Randy
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "joe" <chevy1@jps.net>
> >To: "Randall J. Krebs" <lawgod@offshore-tax.com>;
> <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 1:46 PM
> >Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Alternator Wiring & Gibbon
> >
> >
> >> Actually all the GM Alternators have 3 wires coming off of them. It's
> the
> >> location of the 2 wire connector that determines the internal and
> external
> >> regulator alternators. If the two wire plastic connector is on the
back
> >of
> >> the alternator then it's an external regulator alternator. If the 2
wire
> >> plastic connector ( #1 & #2) are on the side of the case it's an
internal
> >> regulator alternator. What type do you have?
> >>
> >> Joe
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Randall J. Krebs <lawgod@offshore-tax.com>
> >> To: oletrucks@autox.team.net <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> >> Date: Monday, January 07, 2002 8:17 AM
> >> Subject: [oletrucks] Alternator Wiring & Gibbon
> >>
> >>
> >> >I have a GM Alternator ('74 Impala 350). It has 3 wires coming off it
> >> (have
> >> >been told this means an internal voltage regulator). Which wire
goes
> >> >where.
> >> >
> >> >Thanks
> >> >
> >> >Gibbon website is www.gibbonfiberglass.com I used their front cross
> >member
> >> >kit if anyone wants to email me for my comments. (from the question
> above
> >> >it's obvious that it was simple to install and obviously isn't on the
> >road
> >> >yet)
> >> >
> >> >Gibbon also has fibreglass kits to convert a stepside into a Cameo
> >> >
> >> >Randall J. Krebs
> >> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|