Joe,
I have been fretting with the process of replacing the panel between my
drivers door and the rear fender on my 49 sub. I liked your idea of backing
up the seam with brass to get better heat control. I also went to the
autobodystore web site and saw a technique there where he tacked a 2 inch
strip around the border of the patch area leaving 1 inch sticking out into
the patch area. Looks like you would get a nice flat fit that way and less
chance for burn through. I would appreciate your comments on this
approach. I may use this technique. I suppose you could use the clecos to
attach the brass strip and then remove it after welding. I will have access
to the back of the panel after welding so I can put some POR-15 or whatever
on the back when I'm done.
The panel I will replace will be about 12 inches wide and 8 inches tall. I
bought a patch panel for the door which is the same shape. My plan was to
attach the patch panel to the body with clecos, then cut through the new
panel and the body to get an exact matching patch. This sounds good on
paper, any comments.
I am also finding that when go to finish welding in a panel, I have less
grinding if I just spot or tack everything instead of trying to run a
continuous bead between tacks. I get less burn through and fewer lumpy
welds to grind.
Bob Chansler
"joe"
<chevy1@jps.net> To: <AllenHeiden@aol.com>,
Sent by: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
owner-oletrucks@auto cc:
x.team.net Subject: Re: [oletrucks]
body work
12/03/2001 06:13 PM
Please respond to
"joe"
I think anyone that can take the time to prep the area for a close fit with
the donor panel and welds in short burst "spot welds" allowing the metal to
cool to avoid warping the metal can do the job.
If your welding by yourself, you might want to invest in some Cleco
fasteners to secure the patch panel in place while you make your initial
tack welds so the panel doesn't move.
Asking the welding supply co. for a small container of a product that
absorbs the heat from welding to help avoid panel warpage. It comes in a
little plastic container and it's like putty that you place close to the
weld area and it absorbs the heat ...something like "fence heat". If
you'll
alternate your welds from side to side and let the metal cool in between
welding you can avoid warping the panels.
Another item that helps with butt welding panels it to back up the back of
the seam with some brass strap. The weld doesn't stick to the brass and it
helps to prevent burn through as well as absorbing some heat.
I weld with a mig welder and when I'm doing panel repairs, I switch my
welding spool to a .023 wire which is a smaller a diameter then my regular
.035 wire. The smaller wire takes less heat to melt and that means less
heat to the metal.
What area's are you planning to install patch panels?
Joe
----Original Message-----
From: AllenHeiden@aol.com <AllenHeiden@aol.com>
To: oletrucks@autox.team.net <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, December 03, 2001 3:54 PM
Subject: [oletrucks] body work
>how hard is it to do patch panels myself? have done welding myself before.
>have body assembly book. could i drill out old spot welds?
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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