In a message dated 2/24/01 10:31:49 AM Pacific Standard Time,
dkrehbiel@kscable.com writes:
<< I have the Lincoln SP175 (220) and find it very nice to use but to do just
one truck, the SP125 should be enough. I am sort of a perfectionist, so I
try to get the tools that do the best job. The cutting issue is a hard one.
I use a small air die grinder with 3" cutoff wheel to remove the floor and
panels. It takes alot longer than a torch, but you get good clean edges and
you dont fry the crap out of all the rubber nearby. When I get in a tight
corner, I pull out the air body saw. Its a reciprocating saw with a short
throw and metal cutting blade. When I am at the bench cutting down a patch
panel to fit, I have an electric shear that cuts pretty clean. Then there is
the Makita grinder that is the most important of all. The Makita allows you
to run wire wheels, flap discs, grinding wheels of all grades to get the
finish you desire. Since I dont believe in bondo except for a very very
light skim coat, I use metal for all the filler requirements, the SP175
gives me the control I need to do that. I have never seen an air nibbler in
action so I am not sure of its usefulness. I suspect it might be a nice tool
to have around, but not sure.
Another tool that comes in handy is the air edge flanger.. a tool that puts
a flange on the edge of the work so you dont have to do the more tricky butt
weld. This tool has a head on it that also cuts a nice spot weld hole. I
have used every tool mentioned above many times and there are more on my
wish list. To date, I still dont have a torch and that has caused me extra
hours in grinding and grief. I am a novice at all of this, and to be honest,
I dont like working with metal all that well because I am so unsure of
myself. So far I have replaced all cowl panels offered for the AD's at least
once (except the extra tall full size outer cowl panel) and the tools I have
are pretty much the tools I need. Of course a hack saw and an arc welder
will do all of the above in a pinch! I got most of the air tools from Harbor
Fright and they have held up pretty well.
Hope this helps.
Deve Krehbiel
Hesston, Kansas
1950 3100 * 1949 3600 * 1948 4400 * 50 3100
www.speedprint.com/Deves50/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad Baker" <brad@bradbaker.net>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 11:41 AM
Subject: [oletrucks] Returning list member
> Just wanted to say hello to everybody. I took about a year off of the
list
> and I've missed it. I'm trying to get motivated again on my oletruck
> project, a '56 GMC 1/2 LB v8.
>
> Thought I'd start with a couple of newbie questions on welding. I have
been
> looking to buy a welder for the multiple patch panels that are needed on
my
> truck. For doing patch panels, will a fluxless gas core welder (like the
> Lincoln WeldPak 10) do the job? I don't mind spending the money to get a
> better product (Miller 130, Lincoln SP125), but only if there is a real
> benefit. Will the shielding gas and full MIG make a difference?
>
> Another question along the same lines. What is the best tool for cutting
> out the rusted sections of metal? I've seen nibblers, air nibblers,
cutoff
> wheels, dual-action shears. I'm guessing I may need a combination of a
> couple of tools to reach all of the spots that need patch panels.
>
> Moving to front suspensions. What products have you used and what do you
> think of them? Fatman Fabrications, ZIGs, TCI, Jim Meyer Racing, No
Limit,
> and Chubby Chassis are some of the manufacturers that I've seen. I'd like
> to make the truck a daily driver and some improvement in ride/handling
> quality is needed.
>
> I plan to use a CAD 472/TH400 combination and I think disk brakes would be
a
> good idea. Not much sense going faster if you can't stop faster, too.
>
> Anyway, glad to be back. Looking forward to hearing your feedback on my
> questions.
>
> Brad Baker
> 56 GMC 100
> Houston, TX >>
I'll add a little more to what Deve mentioned...spend the additional $$ for
the gas setup, it'll make a cleaner weld, without and slag inclusions.
I picked up a used, inexpensive plasma cutter, DiArco? If I recall, made
by Miller, it has a pretty low duty cycle (like 12% at 18amps), but has 100%
duty cycle on the lower (8 or 10 amp setting), but to cut 20ga and thicker,
the lower setting won't cut well...but regardless, a plasma cutter is your
best friend for cutting sheetmetal, and you're only limited by how steady
your hand is.
If you decide to use a cutoff wheel with an airtool, buy a quality
unit...cost more, but the airconsumption is way less...i/e I bought a Central
Pnuematic cutoff saw, for 13.99 at HF...but it needs like 10CFM at90PSI to
operate correctly, it taxed my little compressor too much, i then spent the
80 bucks for an Ingersoll Rand, which uses 3.2 CFM at 90PSI, and my
compressor keeps up nicely with it.
I look at it this way, may as well spend a few thousand on good
tools...you'll still be way ahead of the game on your first
restoration/modification, over what a shop will charge you.
Now if I could convince my wife to move her garden...I'd buy a used spray
booth;)
Mike
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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