Brian, since I'm painting my steering wheel black, I haven't bothered
looking for the original tan/beige color. However, I think I have Bob
Adler's original post where he listed the DuPont (or some brand) of paint
that's the same color as our original Chevys. If you or anyone else needs
this, I can dig back through my notebook and see if I can find it.
Tom Caperton
47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC
tcape@weblnk.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Stephens" <intubated@earthlink.net>
To: "Dale Withroder" <dale@pro-mentoring.com>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2000 4:48 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Steering wheel repair
> All right! I am glad to see this list reverting to the task at hand; old
> trucks and our work on them.
> Jim Carter sells paint which he says is the specific color for the
steering
> column , wheel, etc. Has anyone used this product? At $35 a pint, does
> anyone know of a cheaper alternative? Where is Bob ADler when you need
him!
> Brian Stephens
> 49 3104
> Owasso, OK
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dale Withroder" <dale@pro-mentoring.com>
> To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2000 2:05 PM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Steering wheel repair
>
>
> > should the steering wheel be black, or the interior color?
> >
> >
> > At 02:28 PM 12/05/2000 -0500, you wrote:
> > >Mike, I plan to put one coat of primer on the wheel, then 2-3 coats of
> black
> > >enamel.....then 2-3 coats of clearcoat. Some of the other list members
> used
> > >this process and say it seems to work for years. I'll post a report on
> the
> > >process as soon as I'm finished. HOPEFULLY, it will be a positive
> report.
> > >
> > >Larry Kephart has an excellent article on his webpage regarding
steering
> > >wheel restoration. The address is........
> > >http://www.laroke.com/larryk4674/2000/wip4a.htm Thanks Larry for doing
> such
> > >a great job documenting the process.
> > >
> > >Good luck with your wheel, Mike!
> > >Tom Caperton
> > >47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC
> > >tcape@weblnk.net
> > >
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: <Passnb4U@aol.com>
> > >To: <tcape@weblnk.net>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > >Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2000 11:58 AM
> > >Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Steering wheel repair....shaping wheel
> > >
> > >
> > >> In a message dated 12/5/00 7:13:55 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> > >tcape@weblnk.net
> > >> writes:
> > >>
> > >> > Well, I'm moving right along with the restoration of the steering
> wheel
> > >on
> > >> > my '47-2. I washed the wheel with Fast Orange hand cleaner and
got
> all
> > >the
> > >> > gunk off. I then cut the cracks with a Dremel tool to make room
for
> > >the
> > >> J-B
> > >> > Weld. Now that the J-BW has dried, I need to cut it down and
shape
> it
> > >to
> > >> > the wheel. What's the best tool to use in doing this....round
> > >> > file....rasp...other tools?? This is my first time working with
J-B
> > >Weld,
> > >> > but I assume I won't be able to just sand it down to where it
blends
> > >with
> > >> > the shape of the wheel. I'd sure appreciate your help with this.
> And
> > >a
> > >> > special thanks to all the folks who supplied the information on
> > >restoring
> > >> > the wheel. I wouldn't have attempted this if you hadn't jumped in
> with
> > >> such
> > >> > good instructions and advice.
> > >> >
> > >> > One additional comment and question......When I cut the cracks out
> with
> > >the
> > >> > Dremel tool, I think I cut them too deep. I cut all the way down
to
> > >the
> > >> > metal core....which left a pretty deep rut to fill. Is it
necessary
> to
> > >cut
> > >> > that far down? Can you just cut just a little way down into the
> crack
> > >and
> > >> > still get the J-B Weld or epoxy to stick in there OK and not crack
> > >again in
> > >> > the future? I'll soon be restoring the steering wheel on a '29
F**d
> > >and
> > >> > don't want to make the same mistakes twice. Thanks in advance for
> your
> > >> > help!
> > >> > Tom Caperton
> > >> > 47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC
> > >> > tcape@weblnk.net
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Hi Tom,
> > >>
> > >> I actually saw a guy cut the whole section of the crack out...made
> about
> > >a
> > >> 1/2inch gap, then filled with an epoxy-type stuff...then used a
narrow
> > >> sanding drum on a drill to shape it...don't know if it was necessary,
> but
> > >he
> > >> sure came out with a nice looking match.
> > >>
> > >> What are you using for paint that won't come off in your hands?
> > >>
> > >> Mike
> > >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > >
> > --
> > Dale Withroder PH: 1-888-233-8469
> > dale@pro-mentoring.com FAX: 1-800-669-1132
> > multimedia development http://www.pro-mentoring.com
> > Professional Mentoring, LLC ICQ: 13411058
> > --
> > Between two evils, I always pick the one I never tried before.
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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