Sounds like just the opposite. The truck should be able to lock up the
wheels if you stand on the pedal. If you can just get the brakes to start
grabbing with the pedal all the way down, or you have to pump, and there
are no fluid leaks and the linings and drums are in good shape, odds are
the brakes are adjusted too loose. The exact procedure is in the manual,
but the basic idea is to tighten up the shoes until they drag and then back
off so many notches or turns on the adjuster screw until the drum turns
freely. The brakes should set up within a half pedal and all four should
grab hold.
This applies to my 57, but I can't imagine the basic principles changed all
that much in 10 years. I still have to do the same thing on the rear of my
96 Suburban.
Bruce Kettunen
57 3200
Mt. Iron, MN
>SHIFTING - I was about to ask this question, that was just answered - now I
>get to go out and try the new shifting - BTW - how to shift is not in the
>owners manual. THANKS AGAIN Whitney!
>
>My question. I know I DO NOT have my breaks adjusted correctly.
>
>Originally, I could not get a pedal no mater what I did. If I would pump
>3-5 times than I could apply break pressure and stop. I bleed the breaks
>4/5 times and got others to do this as well with the same results. I
>finally adjusted the Y on the front side of the Master and now I have a
>pedal and the brake stop the truck.
>
>I still need to think before I press the pedal since I do not have a great
>gripping force on the breaks. If I jack up the truck three of the 4 wheels
>will have a rubbing spot against one of the pads. Do I need to back off
>these 3 settings before the brakes will work with a great grip?
>
>Should I be able to skid if I slam on the brakes? I can not skid now.
>
>Any ideas???
>
>Thanks,
>Jim House
>46 Chevy 3104
>Hollis, NH
>
>_________________________________________________________________________
>
>
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|