Most of these trucks have an ammeter that works. If you have one, it
should show it charging just after you start it up, and dropping back as
the battery charges.
I just went through this on my '57, and the voltage regulator was bad.
At any rate, full scale on the '57 ammeter is about 30 amps and the
generator should be able to do this with a low battery. At idle, it
probably won't charge at all with a generator.
The battery should read right around 12 volts with the key off. It should
read about 14.5 volts with the engine around 1500 RPM and the battery fully
charged. If it doesn't, start snooping around the voltage regulator and
generator. BTW, the readings should be about half this on a 6 volt system.
Shorting between the field terminal and ground should make the generator
charge as much as it can, depending on RPM. By 1500 RPM, it should make
around 20 amps. If it doesn't, check out the generator for worn brushes
etc.
Calibrating the regulator is a fairly involved process, but the factory
service manual covers it in great detail.
I hate to say it, but a one or two wire rebuit GM alternator will solve all
of this once and for all for a 12 volt truck. I got a rebuilt two wire at
NAPA for about $48. Took some revision of the mount and a very minor
amount of rewiring, but it works great. This was actually cheaper than a
new voltage regulator.
Bruce Kettunen
57 3200
Mt. Iron, MN
>Hello,
>
>It's me, the novice, back with another question. Over the weekend
>I had trouble starting my truck and it turns out it's because of
>the battery, which is not even a year old. My guess is it isn't getting
>properly charged when the truck is running. What can I
>look at to check to see if the battery is being charged?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jeff
>
>'54 3100 5 window
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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