I agree.....get rid of all the rust with sandblasting if you're going that
far. I had about 50% surface rust on my '50 before I took it to a local
company for mechanical stripping. Each piece of metal was submitted
separately. They first went over the painted areas with plastic media and
touched up the rusted areas with garnet. They were very attentive to
keeping things straight (attentive regulation of pressure and rate) and
everything came back stripped real nice with no warpage at all. I think it
helped that they used fresh garnet abrasive for the touchy jobs so they
could "get in and get out" so to speak. I've had trouble with other
mechanical stripping in the past (on my first restoration, they warped the
dickens out of the hood requiring the purchase of a new one....), but really
checked these guys out. I'm not saying "don't do it yourself" at all. What
I'm saying is touch up the rusted areas with sandblasting of some sort if
possible. I think you'll be pleased.
Good luck!
Allen.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Passnb4U@aol.com>
To: <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: March 13, 2000 4:04 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] DA Sanders & Update
In a message dated 3/13/00 3:55:25 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dkrehbiel@kscable.com writes:
> Welp, got all the sheet metal (fenders, hood, bed, CAB, and all the misc
> parts too big for my blast cabinet) back from Kansas Dry Strip today. I
> wasnt very impressed, but in their defense, I was probably expecting too
> much. I expected ALL rust, paint, and debris to be TOTALLY removed. What
I
> got was all paint removed but no rust removed at all. This was VERY
> disappointing to me since about 60% of the project was rust. Now, I am
> forced to get out the wire brushes, sandpaper, etc and start over on each
> individual part. They say they use plastic beads to prevent warping and
the
> promise that the owner would sue them for damages when the cab was all
> warped due to aggressive blasting. Plastic does not remove rust. I guess
I
> am not on the same channel as the rest of the world. I am finding that if
I
> want the job done to my satisfaction, I have to do it ALL myself
regardless
> of my experience level. They say the body shops are impressed with their
> work (and they ARE since I asked them where they go) so it must be just
me.
> I expect and WILL HAVE total rust removal and absolutely not one
microscopic
> particle of rust anywhere. Totally bare metal with NO exceptions WILL be
the
> requirement before I start priming. I have NO IDEA why anyone would
expect
> less, but apparently the rest of the world isnt nearly as anal as me.
>
> So... I need a DA Sander. What is a good kind to get? Air or Electric?
What
> grits do I use for rust removal and then for finishing?
>
> Thanks everyone.. my project just got extended another 2-3 months now
that
I
> am sanding everything by hand. At least everything is back in my
possession
> where it will get treated right and DONE right.
>
> Deve
> 50 3100
> 49 3600
Deve,
Depending on the amount of rust you have, sanding will take a long, long
time. If you have the outdoors area avialable I'd suggest you get
sandblaster and get with it. Sand blasting isn't rocket science, once you
begin to see fresh metal, move on and you won't warp anything.
I use dried sand from the lumber yard in 80 or 100# sacks, cost about 5
bucks a sack around here. I do the work in the coner of my yard with a
large
16ftx32ft blue tarp to recapture as much sand as possible to reuse.
But, if you're intent on sanding it all down through the rust, I'd suggest
a decent name brand DA, Ingersoll Rand or Chicago Pnuematic on the upper
end,
or Rodac (if they're still available) and Blackhawk on the lower end. I
definitely like the air DA's unless you can get an electric one with a
variable speed trigger.
Mike
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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