Deve,
I like reading about the progress you are making on
your truck. I am confused as to what ball joints you
are talking about. Chevy trucks didn't use ball
joints until the early 60's.
Byron
--- Deve Krehbiel <dkrehbiel@kscable.com> wrote:
> Well, after etching primer, epoxy primer, lots of
> sanding and scraping, I
> applied the Urethane Satin Black topcoat today. I
> did 3 medium coats and was
> surprised that it applied better than the primers. I
> guess maybe I am
> getting the hang of the paint sprayer finally
> because I had little or no
> runs in the topcoat. What I find I will sand and
> buff out after it dries. To
> paint a frame, it worked best for me to stand it up
> on its side with a
> sawhorse on each end, then pull it down to a 45
> degree angle with a 2x4
> propping it up in the middle so it doesnt fall. In
> this way, you get 3 very
> very small areas that arent exposed to the paint and
> the ability to get all
> areas of the frame very easily. When you are through
> with the first side,
> simply pull the frame over the other way and prop it
> on the other side. This
> angle really made it easier than laying flat. I
> learned this the hard way. I
> cant begin to tell you how nice that frame looks! Is
> it worth it to tear
> your old truck apart clear down to nothing? Well, if
> you get satisfaction
> out of a very thorough job, then it definitely is! I
> don't regret it for a
> minute after looking at the results. So, the frame
> is done and in this
> process I have also been doing the other associated
> tasks.
>
> The leaf springs have been re-arched (Atlas Spring
> and Axle in Wichita, KS)
> where they also RIVETED new clips to the springs
> making them look exactly as
> original. I had them leave the clips open at the top
> so that I can take them
> all apart for individual priming and painting. They
> also replaced the
> kingpins and as soon as I get replacement ball
> joints, they will change them
> too.
>
> The rear end was pondered over and advice was
> received and it was decided to
> have a good auto shop overhaul the rear end. They
> had some of the tools I
> don't, I have never attempted this, and a very
> knowledgeable friend says its
> a major pain to do. What I needed was a very very
> thorough job of cleaning
> the sand out of both the tube and the axles due to
> my overzealous
> sandblasting. I then of course wanted new seals,
> bearings, bushings, etc
> installed and felt they had the expertise that I
> didnt. It isnt back yet,
> but will be next week.
>
> So, the brake drums are turned, wheel bearings
> replaced, and I have lots of
> work in bead blasting, cleaning, priming and
> painting all of the above so I
> can put all of it on my new frame. This project is
> moving along quite well
> despite some of my false starts and inexperience.
> Hope this helps someone..
> one of these days I will find the time to get all
> the pictures up on the
> web.
>
> I might add this level of perfection isnt cheap. The
> axle company charged me
> $350 for the total job (kingpins, and leaf restore
> (included replacing the
> two main leafs on the front, re-arching, and all new
> clips on all 4
> springs)).. the rear end will run me about $200...
> and Chevy Duty got about
> $1300 from me in stainless steel brake lines, wheel
> bearings, every brake
> item imaginable, cab sheet metal, and many other
> misc. items associated with
> the chassis restoration. I'm sure you frame-uppers
> will tell me that this is
> all normal expense but feel free to state your
> opinion. Just the three rims
> I need ($25 each) and tires ($88 each) and a few
> misc used items are going
> to cost me another $600 or so. I'm very glad I can
> take my time with this
> project and actually earn the money as I go! Its a
> major outlay in time and
> money to do the job right but I'm having lots of fun
> doing it!
>
> Deve
> 50 3100
>
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built
> between 1941 and 1959
>
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