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[oletrucks] Frame Painting (final)

To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Subject: [oletrucks] Frame Painting (final)
From: "Deve Krehbiel" <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 17:55:41 -0600
Well, after etching primer, epoxy primer, lots of sanding and scraping, I
applied the Urethane Satin Black topcoat today. I did 3 medium coats and was
surprised that it applied better than the primers. I guess maybe I am
getting the hang of the paint sprayer finally because I had little or no
runs in the topcoat. What I find I will sand and buff out after it dries. To
paint a frame, it worked best for me to stand it up on its side with a
sawhorse on each end, then pull it down to a 45 degree angle with a 2x4
propping it up in the middle so it doesnt fall. In this way, you get 3 very
very small areas that arent exposed to the paint and the ability to get all
areas of the frame very easily. When you are through with the first side,
simply pull the frame over the other way and prop it on the other side. This
angle really made it easier than laying flat. I learned this the hard way. I
cant begin to tell you how nice that frame looks! Is it worth it to tear
your old truck apart clear down to nothing? Well, if you get satisfaction
out of a very thorough job, then it definitely is! I don't regret it for a
minute after looking at the results. So, the frame is done and in this
process I have also been doing the other associated tasks.

The leaf springs have been re-arched (Atlas Spring and Axle in Wichita, KS)
where they also RIVETED new clips to the springs making them look exactly as
original. I had them leave the clips open at the top so that I can take them
all apart for individual priming and painting. They also replaced the
kingpins and as soon as I get replacement ball joints, they will change them
too.

The rear end was pondered over and advice was received and it was decided to
have a good auto shop overhaul the rear end. They had some of the tools I
don't, I have never attempted this, and a very knowledgeable friend says its
a major pain to do. What I needed was a very very thorough job of cleaning
the sand out of both the tube and the axles due to my overzealous
sandblasting. I then of course wanted new seals, bearings, bushings, etc
installed and felt they had the expertise that I didnt. It isnt back yet,
but will be next week.

So, the brake drums are turned, wheel bearings replaced, and I have lots of
work in bead blasting, cleaning, priming and painting all of the above so I
can put all of it on my new frame. This project is moving along quite well
despite some of my false starts and inexperience. Hope this helps someone..
one of these days I will find the time to get all the pictures up on the
web.

I might add this level of perfection isnt cheap. The axle company charged me
$350 for the total job (kingpins, and leaf restore (included replacing the
two main leafs on the front, re-arching, and all new clips on all 4
springs)).. the rear end will run me about $200... and Chevy Duty got about
$1300 from me in stainless steel brake lines, wheel bearings, every brake
item imaginable, cab sheet metal, and many other misc. items associated with
the chassis restoration. I'm sure you frame-uppers will tell me that this is
all normal expense but feel free to state your opinion. Just the three rims
I need ($25 each) and tires ($88 each) and a few misc used items are going
to cost me another $600 or so. I'm very glad I can take my time with this
project and actually earn the money as I go! Its a major outlay in time and
money to do the job right but I'm having lots of fun doing it!

Deve
50 3100


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