This is certainly one of the things I would do before a tear down. You can
use a simple air gun with a rubber tip inserted into a plug hole. Do just
as was described below. You can listen for air coming into the pan, the
intake area or the exhaust. Make sure you get both valves closed, and that
you don't rotate your engine with too much pressure!
Gordon
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-oletrucks@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of joe
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2000 7:05 PM
To: David; oletrucks@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] '48 Vs Y2K update
I used to use a cylinder leak down gauge to see where the problem is
located. Basically what you do is test each cylinder one at a time by
pulling each sparkplug and bring the cylinder up to the compression stroke
"both valves closed", insert and adapter into the sparkplug hole that then
attaches to a regulated shop air supply line. As the air is applied into
the cylinder you listen for air at :
1. The tailpipe bad exhaust valve
2. Radiator or valve cover top "remove filler cap" for bad head
gasket/cracked head or block.
This tool might be available at a tool rental yard in your town.
Joe
----- Original Message -----
From: David <David@gardener.com>
To: <MKlepp4335@cs.com>; <old-chevy-truck@onelist.com>;
<oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2000 4:54 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] '48 Vs Y2K update
> Mike,
>
> Beg, borrow, or rent a bore scope.
>
> I was a skeptic until a mechanic friend showed me his and all he could
tell
> on a head with out removing anything but the spark plugs.
>
> I have seen a hole in a piston, a cracked head (the cylinder was perfectly
> clean from the steam in that cylinder, and leaking valve stems.
>
> Really a neat too.
>
> Another alternative might be for a mechanic to perform the test for you.
>
> Good luck.
>
> David
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MKlepp4335@cs.com <MKlepp4335@cs.com>
> To: old-chevy-truck@onelist.com <old-chevy-truck@onelist.com>;
> oletrucks@autox.team.net <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Date: Wednesday, January 12, 2000 6:49 PM
> Subject: [oletrucks] '48 Vs Y2K update
>
>
> |First, thanks to all those who provided input in my New Year's Eve
> stranding.
> | I have checked everything (twice) and still cannot make this 235 run
more
> |than a few seconds. With much pumping and choking, the truck will fire
but
> |soon die. The real problem is revealed by the large cloud of white smoke
> |(steam) that comes from the tail pipe. I'm guessing that the head gasket
> is
> |blown, head or block cracked allowing coolant to be sucked into the
> |combustion chamber. The one thing I fail to understand is that most
> vehicles
> |with blown gaskets and/or cracked castings continue to run, some quite
> |smoothly. Mine will bearly fire and only run briefly.
> |Believe when I say I have checked and redone everything. I guess my last
> |resort is to pull the head and see if I can locate the problem. This is
> very
> |frustrating since I consider myself a fair wrench and have built and
> repaired
> |many different type motors in the past. Any more things I should check
> |before I jerk the head? I heard Dan Rather talking about global warming
on
> |the news tonight, what do you think? Thanks.
> |Mike Klepp
> |'48 3100
> |Wichita Falls, TX
> |oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> |
>
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|