My shop is 55'x120' and I use black pipe for compressor lines. There are
many as I use the air compressor for almost everything. Except drilling
because my air drill just takes too much air. The part I am allowed to use
for my Truck hobby is only 16'x35' (garage area) and a 20'x30'
woodworking/assembly shop. The wife commands all the rest of the space to
run our business. I tellya.. there oughta be a law! :)
I suppose a few of us are in the city and have limited space and my hats off
to the small garage guy who has innovated and cajoled his square footage to
meet the needs of his hobby. I have so little space that I want to get that
I-Beam up soon so that I am not having to purchase the floor model engine
hoist. Simply takes up too much room. I envy the guys out of town with sheds
full of parts and storage. Not to mention no city to breath on them when
they get too much junk in the yard. I cant so much as have a fender outside
and the city is on my case.
----- Original Message -----
From: <miq@teleport.com>
To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2000 6:59 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] shop ideas
> J Forbes says:
> >
> > Oh boy, we get to design a new shop! First of all, 24' x 24' will be
> > WAY too small. Mine is 30 x 44, and it is WAY too small! Seriously, if
>
> Hey my shop is 68x55 and has a 30x55 loft and it's too small! What ever
> size you get will be two small once you start to use it. Just be glad to
> have a space specifically for shop work.
>
> Jim's right when he says have areas set up for seperate tasks. I have an
> area specifically set up for messy work, like wood working, welding and
> the like, then I have an area near the lift area with grinders and drills
> and stuff that makes metal shavings, and then I have an area that can be
> closed off with inner overhead doors that I keep clean to use as a
> painting, assembly room. I also have an office area that has its own
> locked door and ac this is nice to close off the noise of the compressor
or
> stereo or tv or what ever and just think.
>
> Other things: (most taken from the shop-talk list over the years as well
as
> experience)
>
> White walls, a good reflective surface is melamine board, it comes in 4x8
> sheets for about $12 and is white-board material. Great for making notes.
> Paint the ceiling (or rafters) white too.
>
> If you drywall the interior, think about reinforcing the lower walls with
> plywood. I did this in my shop covering the bottom 4 feet with 1/2"
> plywood and the number of times I've had something heavy bump off it and
> not punch a hole in the wall or been able to bolt down a set of shelves
and
> not worry about the bypsum holding is uncountable. The ply goes on top of
> the drywall for fire prevention.
>
> You can never have enough outlets.
>
> Natural lighting is far superior to electric, but more is better. I have
> some large overhead doors that I open in the summer time, to let in light,
> but in the winter time and nights I use a pair of 400w mercury halid lamps
> in the ceiling. Windows are nice too.
>
> If your shop has to be multipurpose (almost a given with a standard garage
> size), build a large worksurface you can wheel around. I have a table I
> made from scrap wood, its surface is 5/4 floor plywood, 3'x8' then wrapped
> with 2x6 and covered with a 1/4" sheet of aluminum. The legs are 4x4s
with
> cross braces and a turnbuckle cable, and have lockable wheels on them. It
> can easily hold 1000 lbs. It's great for engine assembly-disassembly, but
I
> think I use it for almost every project, wheeling it over to the area I'm
> working on and using it for an easy surface.
>
> Contrary to Jim's suggestion, DO NOT use pvc for compressed air. Even
> though Sched 40 is rated some ultra high level like 600 psi, the fittings
> and joints are not. When the compressor cuts in, there is a wave of
> pressure that can be really high, even if the regulator is set to like 90
> psi. Compressed air is cold, which can freeze pvc and make it brittle.
> When cold brittle pvc is struck with a hard blunt object it will shatter
> and send shrapnel through the building. If you have to put in hard lines,
> go with copper (and silver solder), galvanized, or black pipe. If you
want
> to run a long length, look at PEX tubing. It's green in color and can
> withstand pressures of upwards of 2000 psi. The PEX tubing is relatively
> cheap but the fittings are pricey, so plan it out so that you have the
> fewest connections. One other benefit of PEX is that it is flexible
enough
> to be put inside walls and follow corners without using any fittings. I
> found this stuff when I was working at Intel in the factory, it was used
to
> bring in Argon and Helium under extreme pressures.
>
>
>
> --
> __
> Miq Millman miq@teleport.com
> Tualatin, OR
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|