----- Original Message -----
From: tcape <tcape@weblnk.net>
To: Rob J. <rjj0msj@ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 1999 7:37 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Brake Problem
> Excellent description of how to bleed the brakes, Rob! EXACTLY what I
need.
> I've only had my oletruck for about a year and a half and this is the
first
> time I've had to bleed the brakes. (Or at least the first time I KNEW I
> needed to.) I had some new brake shoes put on the front about 6 months
ago
> and the guy who did it said he thought the wheel cylinder on the right
front
> was leaking. Guess I'll need to replace it. I'm just learning the
> mechanics of the '47, so I don't have the foggiest idea of how to replace
a
> wheel cylinder. Probably get the same guy to do it that put the shoes on.
> Is this a major task (for a rookie)?
Absolutely not. If you have a '47, but brakes are like mine, ie. hucks.
Pay attention to how everything is arranged. Also, use the opposite side as
a pattern if you forget when it comes time to putting everything back
together. Best would be to take a picture first, or at least rough out a
drawing. If memory serves, you will have to partially disassemble the
brakes to remove the cylinder, but again, as long as you note where
everything goes, you should have Zero trouble. To remove the cylinder, you
have to remove the brake line, and two bolts that hold it to the backing
plate. Again, all this is from memory, but since I had never done this
myself, all I had to go by was the manual, and it kept me from getting too
screwed up. Follow directions exactly and you will succeed, and there is
nothing that feels better than to successfully learn a new auto skill.
>
> Question: Should I track down the leak (ie, wheel cylinder) before I
bleed
> the brakes?? You mentioned doing that, but the leak must be very small
You will know if a cylinder is leaking. If not by seeing streaks on the
inside of the tire, then once the drum is off, if you see anything other
than PURE DUST, you have found a leak, but yes, you must first find the
leak. If a SLOW leak, you might be able to forstall things by just
bleeding, but brakes are too important to take a chance with, esp those with
a single master. Once something lets loose, you loose ALL braking ability,
well almost as you still have e-brake action. At least with a dual master,
if one side goes, the other should still operate.
> since I haven't had a problem with it in a year and a half. Does a leak
in
> a wheel cylinder mean the brakes are dangerous?? Or can I let it go for a
> while...and just bleed the brakes for now?
>
> Thanks again for the great description on bleeding the brakes. Like I
said,
> I'm just learning how the oletrucks work and I need pretty elementary
> procedures. Your write-up was perfect.
>
No prob bob! Glad it helped. But DO give some thought to attempting this
on your own. No special tools REQUIRED (however, there is a tool that grabs
the spring and allows you to stretch it to its pin much easier than doing it
other ways...this would be nice to have - it has a hook like device on one
end, that slips over the spring, then tightens down on the spring firmly
holding it so that you can pull the spring onto the pin it goes to. Hard to
describe but should be available at any good auto parts store.
> BTW, did you find your car keys?....or at least get a new one made?
Got the key issue solved. Thanks!
> Tom
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rob J. <rjj0msj@ix.netcom.com>
> To: tcape <tcape@weblnk.net>; oletrucks@autox.team.net
> Date: Thursday, July 08, 1999 12:47 PM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Brake Problem
>
>
> >Gotta wonder how you've managed to avoid doing brakes all this time!
Lucky
> >you! The procedure is actually very simple, but needs two people. Don't
> >know why, but my wife HATES helping. Maybe it is me yelling at her when
> she
> >lets up on the brake pedal too soon? However, the procedure really is
> >pretty simple.
> >FIrst you gotta figure out where the air is coming in. Regardless, there
> >has to be a leak somewhere. Most likely one of the wheel cylinders.
> >Replace the wheel cylinder or fix the leak first.
> >
> >To bleed: Start with a quart sized bottle of brake fluid. Open the
master
> >cylinder (access thru hole in floor). Make sure it is full (and once you
> >start, it is CRITICAL that it stays full). Then, starting with the right
> >rear wheel cylinder, you open the bleed screw (get a special brake
bleeder
> >screw wrench (couple of dollars at Pep Boys)). I use a Lisle bleeding
> >contraption (basically a plastic jar with a hose the pushes onto the
> bleeder
> >screw and collects discharged fluid, and also keeps air from being drawn
in
> >at the bleeder screw. Also under $10 and available at any of the better
> >stocked auto parts stores. Anyway, before starting, first makes sure you
> >can loosen ALL the bleeder screws. As soon as you loosen them,
retighten,
> >but at least this way you KNOW they will brake (sic) (pun intended) free.
> >Otherwise, you will need to remove the wheel cylinder and use a vice to
> >remove them (but then you'll also need replacement bleeder screw). Ok,
all
> >the screws are loose and retightened. Now go to the right rear wheel
> >cylinder, hook the hose over the screw, loosen slightly the screw, then
> have
> >a helper slowly push the brake pedal to the floor and HOLD IT DOWN DO NOT
> >RELEASE. With the pedal down, retighten the screw. Now have the helper
> >raise the brake pedal, pump it to build up pressure, then hold pressure
on
> >it while you reloosen the screw. The pedal will slowly sink to the
floor.
> >Again, have them hold in down until you retighten the screw. Then they
can
> >raise the pedal. Continue this procedure until all air bubbles stop
coming
> >out the screw and down the hose. Also, if the brakes haven't been bleed
in
> >awhile, continue until the cloudy brown fluid is replaced by clear (new
> >appearing) fluid. Then go to the left side wheel and repeat. Then go to
> >the right front and repeat, then the left front and repeat.
> >
> >At all times, make sure the master cylinder never runs low, otherwise you
> >will introduce air into the system, and then have to start the whole
thing
> >over again (been there, done that - remember me saying about yelling at
> wife
> >:-(
> >
> >Brakes are really pretty easy to learn how to do. All you have to keep
in
> >mind, is that you are trying to avoid air at all costs. If the pedal
gets
> >raised while the bleeder screw is open, you draw air into it (unless you
> >have the Lisle system in place, in which case, the hose is filled with
> fluid
> >and then only fluid get sucked back in. Using the Lisle system will
> >simplify things somewhat by preventing the need to retighten the screw
with
> >each push of the pedal. It also allows you to collect the wasted brake
> >fluid (to later dispose of as HAZWASTE).
> >
> >There are tools that will power bleed the brakes by "sucking" fluid down
> the
> >lines from the master cylinder (you basically hook it up at each wheel
and
> >suck fluid through the line and this makes it a one man job, but is more
> >costly a tool. I am thinking about getting one though as they aren't
REAL
> >costly and will prevent a broken marriage perhaps.
> >
> >Let me know if any of this in unclear or you have any other questions.
> >
> >Rob
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: tcape <tcape@weblnk.net>
> >To: Rob J. <rjj0msj@ix.netcom.com>
> >Sent: Thursday, July 08, 1999 6:48 AM
> >Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Brake Problem
> >
> >
> >> Thanks, Rob. I've never bled the brakes before. Is that a big
deal...or
> >> something simple?? What do you do with the extra fluid that comes out?
> >> Will it evaporate if left on the driveway? I try to be
"environmentally
> >> friendly" if at all possible. Thanks for the response.
> >> Tom
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Rob J. <rjj0msj@ix.netcom.com>
> >> To: oletrucks@autox.team.net <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> >> Date: Tuesday, July 06, 1999 6:20 PM
> >> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Brake Problem
> >>
> >>
> >> >Agreed about the air, especially if it shows up "suddenly". If
> bleeding,
> >> >start at the wheel cylinder the furthest away from the master and work
> >your
> >> >way to the one that is closest. Especially important on the single
> >> >reservoirs systems.
> >> >
> >> >Rob
> >> >----- Original Message -----
> >> >From: Marlene Rzepkowski <mrzepkow@rochester.rr.com>
> >> >To: tcape <tcape@weblnk.net>; Oletrucks <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> >> >Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 1999 1:51 PM
> >> >Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Brake Problem
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >> Mushy brakes is usually air in the lines. Air can get in from a low
> >> >> reservoir. Try bleeding the brakes all around.
> >> >> Dick
> >> >> 59 Apache - 1 ton.
> >> >>
> >> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> >> From: tcape <tcape@weblnk.net>
> >> >> To: Oletrucks <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> >> >> Date: Tuesday, July 06, 1999 3:25 PM
> >> >> Subject: [oletrucks] Brake Problem
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> >Need some help on a brake problem. While driving my '47 this week,
I
> >> >> >noticed the brakes have suddenly gotten very "spongy" and are VERY
> >slow
> >> >to
> >> >> >stop the truck. I have to mash them very hard to get the truck to
> >slow
> >> >> >down. They still work, just don't stop nearly as well as before.
> Any
> >> >idea
> >> >> >what the problem is??? TIA
> >> >> >
> >> >> >
> >> >> >
> >> >> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
> >1959
> >> >> >
> >> >>
> >> >> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
> 1959
> >> >>
> >> >
> >> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
1959
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
>
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|