At the risk at being repetitive I will add some of my experiences to Jack's T-5
Tips.
Chevy lists two S-10 T-5's for 85 to 90. The ML2 with 4.03 first and ML3 with
3.76 first. These numbers can be found in the glove box of the donor truck, use
the bar code if it still there or start counting revs. Both are rated the same
torque and have .72 OD. As Jack points out 4.03 or 3.76 is very short 1st gear
but I find 2.37 second gear starts the truck off fine except on hills. That 403
is nice for around a field or such.
I didn't have to shorten the clutch disc hub on my setup but it was very close
to running out of splines and this could vary. I suggest checking this by
installing trans, flywheel and clutch disc with no pressure plate to make sure
the clutch has enough splines to disengage.
T-5's I've seen from 4 an 6 cylinder's have fine spline, Acme lists it as 1
and 1/16 by 26 teeth vrs. the common Chevy 1 an 1/18 by 10. Using this I matched
the clutch disc to a 84 Astro Van with 11 inch clutch. Use your stock 11"
pressure plate, throughout bearing, lever and bell housing.
I found a 88 Astro Van drive shaft to fit perfectly with the Task Force rear in
my AD truck. This should be the same for a Task Force truck. Use Napa 348 cross
over U joint to hook it up to rear.
Grant 50 3100
jack halton wrote:
> Okay, here goes. Let me state at the beginning that I have not done a T5
> conversion myself, but helped a good friend do one, and I have spoken to a
> trusted source who has done several of these. I am also referring to an
> article in the 12 Port News (Inliners International) which goes into great
> detail on this swap. Included are charts listing ratios, model ID and axle
> ratios by year. E-mail me privately for a copy of this back issue @ $4.50.
>
> My friend started with two T5's - a V8 Camaro and an S10, and had a
> tranny shop swap the S10 tail housing onto the Camaro T5. The reason for
> this is to relocate the shifter to somewhere close to the original position.
> The Camaro shifter is way back on the tailhousing, unacceptable for use in
> an old truck. The main reason for using the Camaro T5 is the ratios. His S10
> trans had a 4.03 first gear, too low for the 3.90 rear he planned to use.
> Other applications like minivans and blazers used 3.50 and 3.76 first gears.
> They also differ in the overdrive ratios, listings show .86, .72 and .73 in
> the S10 series of T5's. The only way to be positive is to interpret the bar
> code on the transmission - I do not have this information. Due to
> differences in the mainshafts of the two transmissions, he ended up with no
> speedometer drive. This can be avoided by selecting transmissions with the
> speedo gear position in the same location on both trannies. Or, for about
> $200 a machine shop can relocate the gear to the proper spot on the
> mainshaft.
>
> There are alledgedly earlier S10 5 speeds with a 1:1 to gear, and some with
> lighter weight cases and these should not be considered. The S10 T5's to use
> are the MW1, Ml2, MH3, and ML3. Expect to pay $300 - $500 for a decent
> example.
>
> The Camaro T5's (F-body actually, so Firebirds are included) is basically
> the same transmission; in fact the 6-cylinder cars use the innards of the
> S10 box including the 4.03 1st gear. But there are a variety of overdrive
> ratios here too: .63, .73, and .76
> the V8 T5's all have a 2.95 first gear and are intended for use with axle
> ratios of 3.08 to 3.45 (and lots of V8 torque). Some of these T5's have a
> mechanical speedo gear and some electronic. The 6 cylinder T5's have a
> noticeably smaller (metric) clutch gear which limits the size of the clutch
> which can be used. The V8 T5's use a 26 tooth input shaft - no problem there
> but you need a matching clutch disc.
>
> The F-body T5's are the MB1, M39, and MK6. Expect to pay a bit more than
> above for one that hasn't been abused.
>
> Any of the T5's will require some modification to the input shaft throwout
> collar. It has to be shortened about 1-3/8". This requires removing some
> spline mating surface on the clutch disc to prevent the disc from binding
> when the trans is bolted up. Also the bolt holes where it attaches to the
> truck bellhousing must be drilled out to 1/2". Basically what you are doing
> with all this is getting the front mating surfaces of the tranny to look the
> same as the one you are replacing.
>
> Driveshaft will have to be changed out. You could get lucky and find one
> that works as is, less so one that needs shortening, or at worst have a new
> one built for about $200.
>
> Clutch linkage may require some heating/bending or a different throwout arm.
>
> I n summary, I don't think anything in the T5 line could be called a true
> bolt-in, but the tasks mentioned are not all that difficult. The main thing
> is careful planning and getting the right pieces to start with, otherwise
> you could end up with something that isn't matched to the drivetrain of your
> truck, though it will probably still be an improvement over the original
> gearing.
>
> Also worth mentioning is that swapping tailshafts and other internal work on
> these transmissions is best left to the transmission professionals. They are
> vastly different from the old Saginaw and Muncie designs where all you need
> is a hammer and a pair
> of snap ring pliers.
>
> Hope this helps, anyone who can contribute to this thread, please do so. I
> am looking for the right pieces to put together a 5-speed for my truck. I
> love the Saginaw 4-spped and electric overdrive on it now, but who knows how
> long parts will be available.
>
> Jack / Winter Park FL
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Charles Culver <sculver@iwl.net>
> To: jack halton <safesix@worldnet.att.net>
> Cc: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, June 24, 1999 7:45 PM
> Subject: Re: [oletrucks] S-10 5-speeds
>
> > Jack-
> >
> > Sounds like you have some expertise in the field of upgrading
> > transmissions/rear ends in old trucks. I would like to know what my
> options
> > are with a '50 3600 long bed, that has a '59 235 and a 4 speed, open drive
> > shaft. Can I simply swap for a later more fuel efficient model without
> > doing a lot of modification, and if so, which option would be best?
> >
> > Thanks in advance-
> >
> > Smokey
> > '50 3600 5-window
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: jack halton <safesix@worldnet.att.net>
> > To: oletrucks <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > Date: Wednesday, June 23, 1999 7:12 PM
> > Subject: [oletrucks] S-10 5-speeds
> >
> >
> > >Getting caught up on some threads, I noticed a caution on the S-10 5
> speed
> > >being inadequate for a 235 - not to worry. S-10's use the same T-5 for
> all
> > >the current 4 cyl and 6-cyl applications and the torque rating is very
> > >conservative. I know of at least one truck with a warmed over 261 and an
> > >S-10 5-speed that has endured over 100K miles. Consider that the 235
> torque
> > >was measured as a gross rating under optimum conditions and no
> accessories
> > >like fan, generator, mufflers etc. And the same transmission is used in
> > >recent Jeeps behind a 4.0 inline six that puts out well over 200 ft/lbs
> of
> > >torque.
> > >
> > >If you're really worried about the durability of the S-10 5 speed though,
> > >use a Camaro 5-speed with the S-10 tail housing to relocate the shifter.
> > The
> > >aforementioned Jeep tranny is a direct bolt-in too, even has the GM
> spline.
> > >But the shifter is a couple of inches to the rear of the S-10 location,
> so
> > >it may interfere with a bench seat.
> > >
> > >Jack / Winter Park FL
> > >
> > >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> > >
> > >
> >
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|